Supporting Member piotrek Posted September 21, 2019 Supporting Member Share Posted September 21, 2019 6 hours ago, dazzler24 said: Changed the oil and filter and went for a quick run today and pleased to report that all is well. I now have a lovely light, smooth and positive clutch feel... Congrats on a successful project, and thanks for a nice writeup and photos. 👌 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted September 22, 2019 Supporting Member Share Posted September 22, 2019 (edited) Quote Have a talk to Ride Dynamics, he re valved my stock one and Im happy with it. @jdavis, Interesting. Can I ask how much that cost as a comparison to a new shock? Edited September 22, 2019 by dazzler24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdavis Posted September 22, 2019 Share Posted September 22, 2019 2 hours ago, dazzler24 said: @jdavis, Interesting. Can I ask how much that cost as a comparison to a new shock? About $300 I think. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted September 22, 2019 Supporting Member Share Posted September 22, 2019 OK thanks. I will consider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted September 25, 2019 Supporting Member Share Posted September 25, 2019 Just a quick follow up on my recent slipper clutch install. I've since been for a couple of longer runs and have to say that the experience is different from the original clutch in several ways. In summary:- light clutch lever pull clutch engagement feels smoother and more linear rear wheel and chain 'chatter' is virtually eliminated on downshifting gear changes just feel smoother Initially I wasn't sure that I would achieve enough of a benefit from the excercise but now that it's installed I'm glad I did. If you have an earlier model like me and your clutch is perhaps due for a service (or not!) then it's worth considering making the change/upgrade IMHO. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted September 25, 2019 Supporting Member Share Posted September 25, 2019 14 hours ago, dazzler24 said: Just a quick follow up on my recent slipper clutch install. I've since been for a couple of longer runs and have to say that the experience is different from the original clutch in several ways. In summary:- light clutch lever pull clutch engagement feels smoother and more linear rear wheel and chain 'chatter' is virtually eliminated on downshifting gear changes just feel smoother I also like that you can drop a gear w/o braking (5k or below) and not upset the rear traction. It works awesome in the twisties!! 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member estell Posted April 25, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted April 25, 2020 I waited until now to install the slipper clutch upgrade on my 2015 FJ-09. One thing that I'll add to this thread is that the pre-2017 clutch has two friction discs with thinner tabs than the rest. They are the third and fourth from the inside and labeled '7" in the service manual. Those discs are not used with the slipper clutch. So when you replace three discs from your 2015 clutch pack with the three new discs from the upgrade kit, you can take out the two with thinner tabs and replace them with the two outer friction discs that you replace with new discs from the kit. You also replace the inner-most friction disc with a new disc from the kit. By the way, after 36K miles my clutch pack still measured the full thickness. I didn't need to use the 2.3mm clutch plate that I purchased in case I needed to make up for wear in the 6 re-used friction discs. 1 2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member estell Posted April 26, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted April 26, 2020 On 8/20/2019 at 12:27 AM, dazzler24 said: OK, I've got one of these coming. You're right, a $40 clutch holding tool vs the risk of damaging and replacing a $600 part is a no brainer. I used a Motion Pro 08-0008 clutch holder tool for my slipper clutch installation. It did not work very well for me. The jaws are larger than the slots of the clutch boss, so it did not fit securely. It kept slipping off when I applied pressure to the breaker bar and it marred the edge of the "teeth" on the boss each time. I wish that I had purchased the tool shown above instead. The poor function of the Motion Pro tool is the main reason that I abandoned the breaker bar technique and went to the air impact gun. The impact gun took the boss nut off within about ten seconds 1 2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jobby Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 just about to get my mt09 tracer booked in for the xsr slipper clutch mod but need to order the kits 1st, just wanted to make sure its the correct one before i spend my hard earned, https://www.partshark.com/product/53311/xsr900-slipper-clutch-for-fz-09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted June 24, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted June 24, 2020 29 minutes ago, jobby said: just about to get my mt09 tracer booked in for the xsr slipper clutch mod but need to order the kits 1st, just wanted to make sure its the correct one before i spend my hard earned, https://www.partshark.com/product/53311/xsr900-slipper-clutch-for-fz-09 Yep, that is the same one I bought, it even looks to be the same price that I paid 3 years ago. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jobby Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 15 hours ago, betoney said: Yep, that is the same one I bought, it even looks to be the same price that I paid 3 years ago. thank you very much, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dundee Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 @betoney I am encountering the problem that you describe with the push lever assembly. What did you do to solve this? -The push lever assembly (where the clutch cable connects to) gets aligned triangle to dot when there is tension on the arm, if you align the two marks when there is free play, you will adjust your lever all the way out and will have zero clutch cable pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted November 7, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted November 7, 2020 2 hours ago, dundee said: @betoney I am encountering the problem that you describe with the push lever assembly. What did you do to solve this? -The push lever assembly (where the clutch cable connects to) gets aligned triangle to dot when there is tension on the arm, if you align the two marks when there is free play, you will adjust your lever all the way out and will have zero clutch cable pull. I know you've addressed your question to betoney and he will answer I'm sure, but if this helps in the mean time then...... If you are talking about aligning the marks when replacing the cover then here is something from one of my posts when doing the slipper clutch upgrade - "I took a photo of the clutch actuator (pull lever) position just before it released from the pull rod when I was removing the cover and I'm glad I did as you must have it in that same position when reassembling for the alignment marks to realign." Is that what you are referring to? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted November 7, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted November 7, 2020 2 hours ago, dundee said: @betoney I am encountering the problem that you describe with the push lever assembly. What did you do to solve this? -The push lever assembly (where the clutch cable connects to) gets aligned triangle to dot when there is tension on the arm, if you align the two marks when there is free play, you will adjust your lever all the way out and will have zero clutch cable pull. The clutch pull arm can be oriented on the spline shaft one tooth at a time. If it is too loose, remove the arm and move it one tooth at a time outward from the engine, if it is too tight, move the arm inward one tooth at a time. The adjuster on the bottom of the cable I refer to as a 'coarse' adjustment and the adjuster on the bar end as a 'fine' adjustment. I always start with both adjusters at their minimum and like to keep the lever end adjuster no more than the middle of the adjustment range, usually within the first 1/3. 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dundee Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 Thanks guys. The pull arm is too loose. I will try your suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now