angrygirafe Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Yesterday I did the APS adjustment, and rotated the handlebar risers to the forward position. Old APS numbers were 17/101 and 16/100. New numbers are 14/98 and 13/97. It definitely had an impact. It wasn't a magic bullet, but I ride A mode exclusively, so STD is probably perfect now. I'm not complaining; between the 2WDW flash and the APS adjustment, A mode is an absolute riot. @piotrek has a great walkthrough on doing it here Enjoying the new bar position as well. Moved forward, and dropped them as low as possible while still clearing the tank trim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted September 17, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted September 17, 2018 Yesterday I did the APS adjustment, and rotated the handlebar risers to the forward position. Old APS numbers were 17/101 and 16/100. New numbers are 14/98 and 13/97. It definitely had an impact. It wasn't a magic bullet, but I ride A mode exclusively, so STD is probably perfect now. I'm not complaining; between the 2WDW flash and the APS adjustment, A mode is an absolute riot. @piotrek has a great walkthrough on doing it here You can drop the numbers even further if you wish, I originally dropped mine to 14, a few days later I dropped further to 12. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Yesterday I did the APS adjustment, and rotated the handlebar risers to the forward position. Old APS numbers were 17/101 and 16/100. New numbers are 14/98 and 13/97. It definitely had an impact. It wasn't a magic bullet, but I ride A mode exclusively, so STD is probably perfect now. I'm not complaining; between the 2WDW flash and the APS adjustment, A mode is an absolute riot. @piotrek has a great walkthrough on doing it here You can drop the numbers even further if you wish, I originally dropped mine to 14, a few days later I dropped further to 12. I may give that a try the next time I've got panels off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted September 17, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted September 17, 2018 Yesterday I... rotated the handlebar risers to the forward position. Enjoying the new bar position as well. Moved forward, and dropped them as low as possible while still clearing the tank trim. Can you elaborate a bit? I have the risers rotated to the forward position, but still appear to have about an inch of clearance before the stock bars contact anything. I’m thinking about machining an extra pair of stock risers to take about 3/4” off the bottom, to get the bars as low as I can without inference. I’m fine with the bend of the stock bars, just want the whole setup a bit lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Yesterday I... rotated the handlebar risers to the forward position. Enjoying the new bar position as well. Moved forward, and dropped them as low as possible while still clearing the tank trim. Can you elaborate a bit? I have the risers rotated to the forward position, but still appear to have about an inch of clearance before the stock bars contact anything. I’m thinking about machining an extra pair of stock risers to take about 3/4” off the bottom, to get the bars as low as I can without inference. I’m fine with the bend of the stock bars, just want the whole setup a bit lower. I just rolled the bars in the mounts (towards me) until I minimized the full lock clearance. It's not too drastic of an angle, and I've still got about a half inch of clearance. Of course that means the controls are back towards me after moving the bars forward. Full lock, left and right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted September 17, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted September 17, 2018 @angrygirafe - Ok, that’s what I had assumed... thanks for clarifying. I actually went a fraction the other way with mine when I was fiddling around with the bar location; more ‘up and away’ than ‘down and back’ the way mine is currently set. I have a couple of extra pairs of risers, so am going to take some careful measurements and run by my local machine shop... a bit off the bottom (and having to retap & anchor the stud) should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 I did a pretty awesome 361 mile loop. Got some new roads in and they were epic. '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member coachluciano Posted September 18, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted September 18, 2018 GPR V4 stabilizer. No more shimmies. Convinced that the FJ becomes quit susceptible to aerodynamics over 100. The hand guards alone are not ideal for high speed. I’m convinced that is why the FJ is speed limited to 113 here in the states. It’s probably a known issue in the Yamaha camp and was easily noticed during any wind tunnel tests and this reduces liability. 2015 FJ-09 - Andreani Cartridges, Ohlins 535 Rear Shock, LightTech Chain Adjusters, Yoshi Fender Eliminator, Blaster-X Integrated Tail Light/Blinkers, Full Yoshi Exhaust, Ivan's Flash, Bagster Seat, Rizoma: (Bar, Grips, Bar Ends, Mirrors, Oil Cap, Rear Pegs) Bremob Corsa Corta Master Cylinder, Bremob RCS19 Hadraulic Clutch, GPR Steering Damper, Speigler Hydraulic Lines, EBC Brake Pads, Puig Screen, HealTech Quick Shifter, MPG Rearset, XSR900 Slipper Clutch, Driven Racing Halo Gas Cap, SW-Motch Front / Rear Axel Sliders, R1 Rotors / 320mm Kit Conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr600 Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Is this not a false sense of security? Getting rid of a head shake but the front tire still light? I don't really know the reason for the head shake but folks report a cure with new suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted September 18, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted September 18, 2018 Is this not a false sense of security? Getting rid of a head shake but the front tire still light? I don't really know the reason for the head shake but folks report a cure with new suspension. I noticed the same thing on the FZ09 during a test ride, I would get on the gas hard through a corner and the front would get so light the front end would start to shake, I attributed it to the budget shock. I dont use the hand guards or oem suspension and hit triple digit speeds almost every time I ride and I dont have head shake. The only time I get thrown around is when I am on the interstate behind large trucks kicking up turbulent air, but then the whole bike is shaking, not just the front end. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member duhg Posted September 18, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted September 18, 2018 Today I installed new GIVI lock cores, so all three GIVI bags are keyed the same. Easy! The lock core kits come in sets of 1, 2, 3 and 5 identically keyed cores each with two keys. The bags are 2 Trekker 46 liter side cases and a Maxia3 E55 trunk. The trunk is an everyday accessory that holds my Aerostich Darien, a Camelbak pack and a few other small items when I'm off the bike. The Trekkers are for traveling. Tomorrow I will place reflective tape under the smoked lens pieces that wrap around sides of Maxia lid. https://ridemsta.com/oh-tmr/ Riding makes me happy. "Do it or don't do it - you'll regret both." - Soren Kierkegaard 2015 FJ-09, 60k miles, Hord Power ECU, K-Tech suspension, MC Cruise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raggededge Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Is this not a false sense of security? Getting rid of a head shake but the front tire still light? I don't really know the reason for the head shake but folks report a cure with new suspension. I’ve hit 114 indicates several times with cases on and stock windscreen in low. Haven’t experienced any trouble but I have a feeling it’s because I’m 230 without gear lol. I keep the sucker planted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 GPR V4 stabilizer. No more shimmies. Convinced that the FJ becomes quit susceptible to aerodynamics over 100. The hand guards alone are not ideal for high speed. I’m convinced that is why the FJ is speed limited to 113 here in the states. It’s probably a known issue in the Yamaha camp and was easily noticed during any wind tunnel tests and this reduces liability. Looks like you have some cartridge inserts as well? '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Koth beat me to the cartridge comment and I also wanted to say, I noticed the fork caps are pretty close to flush with the triple tree... many of us have pushed the forks up past the triple tree by about 15mm to help out... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raggededge Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Did the APS adjustment last week and have a little time riding it. I’d say it’s better in most situations. Still a little herky jerky in 1rst at low speeds. Put on new shoes and angled metal valvestems over the weekend. Metzeler Roadtec 01’s. Wow the bike actually turns so easily now. I had no idea that the flat spots would affect it so much. And today I just got the handlebar recall and state inspection done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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