nhchris Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 I combat the twitchiness of my non-GT FJ by reducing my corner entry speed a bit then using maintenance throttle to keep the suspension and chassis in tension. Without any throttle in corners, the FJ is very unsettled. Yup, reduced speed always helps as does staying on the gas through the apex. It's just so hard to reduce speed when you're having fun! I think my suspension might be set a bit stiff / hard. Does anyone have some broad guidelines for suspension settings for a 200 pound rider on a 2016 FJ 09? I'm running 38 lbs front and rear in the Dunlops. Is that correct for my weight on this bike? Getting to know her is getting to love her... cb 1968 Triumph Bonneville 650 1971 Norton Commando Roadster 2002 Harley 1200 Sportster 2003 Honda ST 1300 2016 FJ 09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 I'm running 38 lbs front and rear in the Dunlops. Is that correct for my weight on this bike? Which Dunlops? The stock tires? Have you tried to set the sag? '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhchris Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 I'm running 38 lbs front and rear in the Dunlops. Is that correct for my weight on this bike?Which Dunlops? The stock tires? Have you tried to set the sag? Running Sportmax D222 front n rear. I did set sag. Rear shock set to 6 out of 7 for stiffness. Did not touch rebound damping Front set to 5mm adjuster height I think. (I need to check.) cb 1968 Triumph Bonneville 650 1971 Norton Commando Roadster 2002 Harley 1200 Sportster 2003 Honda ST 1300 2016 FJ 09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Dunno. Haven't run the D222 very much. Also don't know enough about suspension to really comment. '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member coachluciano Posted September 3, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted September 3, 2018 Added Andreani cartridges, K&N air filter, adjusted TPS to help reduce jerky throttle, flushed brake lines (bike is a 2015 purchased new a month ago, dealer never replaced old brake fluid) and cleaned chain. Feels like a bought a whole nother bike. 2015 FJ-09 - Andreani Cartridges, Ohlins 535 Rear Shock, LightTech Chain Adjusters, Yoshi Fender Eliminator, Blaster-X Integrated Tail Light/Blinkers, Full Yoshi Exhaust, Ivan's Flash, Bagster Seat, Rizoma: (Bar, Grips, Bar Ends, Mirrors, Oil Cap, Rear Pegs) Bremob Corsa Corta Master Cylinder, Bremob RCS19 Hadraulic Clutch, GPR Steering Damper, Speigler Hydraulic Lines, EBC Brake Pads, Puig Screen, HealTech Quick Shifter, MPG Rearset, XSR900 Slipper Clutch, Driven Racing Halo Gas Cap, SW-Motch Front / Rear Axel Sliders, R1 Rotors / 320mm Kit Conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 With those mods I'm sure it does! '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted September 3, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted September 3, 2018 I think my suspension might be set a bit stiff / hard. Does anyone have some broad guidelines for suspension settings for a 200 pound rider on a 2016 FJ 09? I'm running 38 lbs front and rear in the Dunlops. Is that correct for my weight on this bike? Getting to know her is getting to love her... cb I am not an expert, so take my opinions as merely opinions. When you talk to any suspension tuner, one of the first thing they will ask you is how much you weigh, correct spring rate is crucial, followed by setting correct sag for your weight and cargo. If you are going to keep stock components then you are limited to spring preload and rebound settings. You can somewhat modify the fork action by experimenting with different oil viscosities, thinner or thicker oils will flow quicker or slower through the valve orifice's. While riding, dont be afraid to make adjustments on the go, I always ride with a straight slot screwdriver on both street and dirt bikes. If you have never adjusted your rebound, close the valve by turning the clicker clockwise just until it stops, dont force it. Open it counter-clockwise 5 clicks (this is just as a starting reference) and go tear through some twisty roads and see how it feels. If you need to tweak it, pull over and add or subtract 2 clicks at a time and ride it again. Your rebound adjustment will alter the speed that your forks or shock rebound back from being compressed, clockwise=slower, Counter-clockwise=faster. Concerning the stock Dunlop D222, - to me, they weren't terrible but nothing special either. Almost any other premium tire will give you better feel and feedback. Tire pressure is another trial and error aspect where you will find what works best for you. I personally think the recommendation in the manual for 42psi in the rear is crazy. I usually set mine at 34-35 Front / 35-36 Rear. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhchris Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Great info and I appreciate it. Time to start tweaking! Thanks, cb 1968 Triumph Bonneville 650 1971 Norton Commando Roadster 2002 Harley 1200 Sportster 2003 Honda ST 1300 2016 FJ 09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member sterlinggold Posted September 4, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted September 4, 2018 Replaced the rear tire to Dunlop Q3+ and a 90 degree stem; 35 PSI. Used the Harbor Freight motorcycle changer, took about 1.5 hours start to finish including swingarm and sprocket cleanup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartacus Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 I was tired of my Cortech saddlebags sagging so much, especially when I had them packed full for commuting to work. Gym bag, lunch, laptop and such. They unzip and expand so I might as well use it, right? Grabbed two pieces of 1x12x3/16” steel and two pieces of 1/4” or 3/16” (I can’t remember) steel rod from the orange Depot. Cut the steel strips to length (about 12”) and drilled two holes to mount. Used the stock hardware and spacers. Heated and bent the steel rod to shape, by eye for the most part. I went back to the bike constantly with the bags mounted to make sure the shape was right. Then I welded the rods onto the bars, ground down the monstrous boogers that I call welds down nice and smooth, and shot it with a few layers of gloss black. They work great and I’m very pleased. I don’t really load them down that much, not compared to if they were hard bags, so I don’t think I need a cross bar for support. The stock is thick enough and I believe my welds were good enough that they aren’t going anywhere. I’ll monitor and add one or two if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted September 4, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted September 4, 2018 @spartacus I had the exact same bags with the exact same sagging issues. Your solution looks great and should be more than strong enough for anything you would ever carry in the bags. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Replaced the rear tire to Dunlop Q3+ and a 90 degree stem; 35 PSI. Used the Harbor Freight motorcycle changer, took about 1.5 hours start to finish including swingarm and sprocket cleanup You remembered to get the rebate right? I just put some Q3+'s on my trackbike, loved 'em! '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member sterlinggold Posted September 5, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted September 5, 2018 Replaced the rear tire to Dunlop Q3+ and a 90 degree stem; 35 PSI. Used the Harbor Freight motorcycle changer, took about 1.5 hours start to finish including swingarm and sprocket cleanup You remembered to get the rebate right? I just put some Q3+'s on my trackbike, loved 'em! Oh was not aware of rebate. I got them back in Feb so too late for this pair but will consider rebate before buying the next set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuff Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 Found a good deal on an open box set of Bikemaster heated grips. Never used them before, always had oxfords, but for $30 shipped I couldn't say no. Not as hot as the Oxford's but the grip is better. Also like the smaller wire and less intrusion around the thumb area. Also bonus was the fact the clutch wire ran through factory route in the switch housing. Not a sophisticated switch but it does the job hooked up to one of the open plugs under the windscreen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mftic Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Finally got around to installing my OEM heated grips. Now that i'm done and can look back on it...super easy install. Took me way longer than it should have but i wanted to do it right the first time. Even had the wife look at it to make sure i was routing it correctly. (Once again after asking for help she gave me that HORRIFIED look, had to assure her i was calm and collective) Missing an OEM zip tie so thought i was routing it wrong. Won't give a review since that's been done many times. The only thing i would warn against is they don't have the grip the stock ones do (which aren't great themselves with how the throttle works). Now i kinda see why some people like the Oxfords better. 62 degree morning. Not a heater morning, but the warmth in my hands still made me smile. end of my ride the last song was fitting i thank god everyday i wake up feeling this way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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