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What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?


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On 3/26/2022 at 8:44 PM, peteinpa said:

When I first got my FJ I thought the stock gearing was perfect. Then I bought a 17 tooth front but couldn't install it, chain too tight. Now I think the gearing is fine again. Funny how some want to gear it down and some up.

Some don't like the engine running faster.  I don't understand that thought process at all; I only care about available power and speed potential(though I respect everyone has their own preferences).  I'm perfectly happy cruising at even 6k if the bike performs well there.  But I want as much off the line power as I can get without compromising practical max speed.

This is the first gearing change where my mathematical max speed will even be reachable, so going shorter has been (for me) completely without downsides.  More torque, and at 16/47 even more max speed.

And now? 212kph? I can live with that as a max speed.  That's OK.

 

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On 3/26/2022 at 9:28 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

45/16=2.8125

45/15=3.0 Interesting

47/16=2.9375 What I run (with 520 vs 525 and stock # links thus a bit shorter wheel base)

47/15=3.1333  Hmmm?  Wheelie Whore?

Hahaha I REALLY considered keeping the 47 rear on there, but it would have come with a very substantial cut to max speed and probably a major hit to fuel economy (thus far that's been mild, but I'm highway cruising at 5.5k/120kph now, going up two more on the rear would easily have me over 6k).

Seriously, though, even just 15/45, it doesn't care about those extra 2" on the swing arm, it's pretty happy to stand up 😀

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13 hours ago, rodb47 said:

How do your passengers like it?

Good question, and one that I can't answer as it has not seen any action as yet.

It was purchased to allow the other half to feel a bit more secure when she feels comfortable to come for a ride but to date - no show.

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5 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Yes. 

Can you read error codes to see which switch or sensor is causing this? If not, I bought this cheap ebay wifi scanner in combination with a free phone app and it seems to read and reset everything but TBH I have not needed it for anything real yet so I don't know if the ECU gives useful info on errors like these.

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Edited by petshark
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2 hours ago, petshark said:

Can you read error codes to see which switch or sensor is causing this? If not, I bought this cheap ebay wifi scanner in combination with a free phone app and it seems to read and reset everything but TBH I have not needed it for anything real yet so I don't know if the ECU gives useful info on errors like these.

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Nah.  I've got a good odb2 reader (ScanTool) and a range of software, but they don't say which switch is doing it.  Could be either brake, clutch, or the throttle back-turn switch.  It's still under warranty so I'm actually sitting at a dealership waiting for it to open right now, gonna have them figure it out.  

I'm hoping the Yamaha dealerships software is more useful.

~~~

As an aside, this is kind of an "it figures" moment, but last night was my first commute to work after swapping my winters for the Road 6's.  18C Sunday for our ride, beautiful.  Monday night shift, this happens: 

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Rained, froze, then snowed.  Had to chip ice off the ignition and heat my key to start the bike.  Roads covered in ice.

Turns out Road 6's are very good on icy pavement, so there's that.

 

Edited by Wintersdark
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22 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

As an aside, this is kind of an "it figures" moment, but last night was my first commute to work after swapping my winters for the Road 6's.  18C Sunday for our ride, beautiful.  Monday night shift, this happens: 

20220329_004251.thumb.jpg.9289c07e63ec2e83081e158516891a8c.jpg

Rained, froze, then snowed.  Had to chip ice off the ignition and heat my key to start the bike.  Roads covered in ice.

Turns out Road 6's are very good on icy pavement, so there's that.

 

That's a pretty good endorsement for the Road 6's. Noted!

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On 3/28/2022 at 3:21 AM, 2linby said:

The blue tape on the pliers is holding two 1/4" nuts in place to help squeeze in the damn near impossible fuel tank quick (yeah right!) release button....

I finally got around to fitting my replacement fuel line that I'd bought last year after I'd damaged my original one  trying to get those little blue tabs to release!  The damaged fuel line has still worked obviously.

Anyway, while fitting the new one I've just noticed that someone in their wisdom has changed the design of the end that goes into the tank for a much simpler arrangement.  No more trying to squeeze the little blue tabs to get it to release.

The new design incorporates a simple push/pull locking tab.  Excellent!

If you're interested here's the part number.

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4 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

I finally got around to fitting my replacement fuel line that I'd bought last year after I'd damaged my original one  trying to get those little blue tabs to release!  The damaged fuel line has still worked obviously.

Anyway, while fitting the new one I've just noticed that someone in their wisdom has changed the design of the end that goes into the tank for a much simpler arrangement.  No more trying to squeeze the little blue tabs to get it to release.

The new design incorporates a simple push/pull locking tab.  Excellent!

If you're interested here's the part number.

20210923_121308.thumb.jpg.917740ec70adf3abfe33e5ddd46e3c16.jpg

20220330_152951.thumb.jpg.6d6b1aa6c6fa86acea4cacb18aabc71b.jpg20220330_153010.thumb.jpg.f92e42f5ffd4076578aa6a3d20c4bac9.jpg

 

That IS an interesting update to the part! My guess would be they changed it in the new models, so they just made it fit all Gens. 

Glad you like the new fitting better, Daz. ;)

-Skip

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On 3/27/2022 at 10:37 AM, 2and3cylinders said:

FYI

See where I mounted the McCruise "Slim" control switch & CPU.  Installed March 2020 and I've since rerouted the wiring loom a bit to snug it away and sanitize it better.

Note:  Divider "walls" of saddle undertray long before were neatly cut away.

Works a treat!

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I placed the control unit under the seat latch mechanism and modified the "tray" to allow the wires to route better. Lots of room under there!

Everything is simple, Nothing is easy

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4 hours ago, 2linby said:

I placed the control unit under the seat latch mechanism and modified the "tray" to allow the wires to route better. Lots of room under there!

I looked at that but I keep a custom tool roll under there plus I had some other electrical components I added that needed to be worked around.

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Got rid of the OEM AIS while doing a Valve check and plug change.  Took her for a spin today and while I never had any obnoxious burbling or popping before on deceleration, it's even quieter now.

That wasn't the reason why I decided to do it though.  It was more about the clearance of real estate for future access as many in here have done.

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21 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Got rid of the OEM AIS while doing a Valve check and plug change.  Took her for a spin today and while I never had any obnoxious burbling or popping before on deceleration, it's even quieter now.

That wasn't the reason why I decided to do it though.  It was more about the clearance of real estate for future access as many in here have done.

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A clean engine is a happy engine!

Like Paul McCartney’s vindictive but exceptionally clean grandfather (Wilfrid Brambell) in Hard Day's Night.

Don't know where that came from...

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P McCartney's Grand Dad & Ringo.jpg

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