Clutch lever woes...

[AndyW]

Noticed that the clutch lever (aftermarket) does not 'close' fully when released. 

Adjusted the cable so there's a couple of mm slack but made no difference... found that it can't be pushed to close the gap (see photo).

Looks like a bodge install on closed inspection.... found a piece of rubber tube cable tied to the post that operates the switch i.e. to fully depress the switch button!

 

Pulling the clutch lever in... either the lever pulls right to the bars or on adjuster setting to upwards of 3 the adjuster cam hits the back of the handlebar switches!

 

Obviously needs to be binned and replaced but meantime concerned that pulling the lever is not giving max operation of the arm on the crankcase i.e. not disengaging clutch to the max.

Is there a measurement for the correct operation of the lever on the crankcase?

 

(sorry for the long winded explanation... hope it makes sense!)

[AndyW]

The clutch switch post bodge...

 

[2and3cylinders]

Is the AM lever newly installed and no issues with the OEM lever?

If so go back to OEM or a proper AM lever.

#16 Push Lever arm has an arrow that should align with a punch mark on top of the #25 Axle, Push Lever, or is it visaversa...

Anyway, I find better operation adjusting clutch lever free-play significantly tighter than spec, as the free-play slackens when the clutch gets hot. The lower adjuster is the course setting, and upper adjuster at the lever is your fine setting; and obviously easier to access.

Do you have the 2nd gen #9 (-01-00) clutch cable?!!

 

[AndyW]

Bike is new to me and the parts fitted by a previous owner.

I'll have a look for those alignment marks.... thanks.

[AndyW]

Arrow (on case) and 'punch mark' aligned 👍 

@2and3cylinders ....when (if) you get a chance could you measure the travel of the clutch arm... see pic (distance travelled when clutch lever pulled right in).

Cheers

[skipperT]

3 hours ago, AndyW said:

Arrow (on case) and 'punch mark' aligned 👍 

@2and3cylinders ....when (if) you get a chance could you measure the travel of the clutch arm... see pic (distance travelled when clutch lever pulled right in).

Cheers

That distance will change depending on if the levers are stock or aftermarket. 
-make sure some numb-nuts didn’t toss the bushing that is supposed to to be on the lever, that the securing bolt passes through. Seen that one a bunch of times. 

IMHO bite the bullet and spend good money on good levers. I’m partial to genuine Pazzo levers. Original, well designed and produced, quality. 
some folks are fine with 20-50$ eBay/amazon specials. Not for me, the quality isn’t there and they feel like garbage. 
-Skip

[AndyW]

Surely the throw of the actuator arm has to be a set measurement (within a range) to guarantee clutch disengagement?

The bar lever may move a different distance but the 'gearing' of the lever mech should ensure the required throw?

Ordinarily I'd go for decent levers but I'm not wanting to put more money into this bike right now unless I absolutely have to.

Thanks 👍 

[2and3cylinders]

Why?

I'll try to measure...

[miweber929]

11 hours ago, AndyW said:

Surely the throw of the actuator arm has to be a set measurement (within a range) to guarantee clutch disengagement?

The bar lever may move a different distance but the 'gearing' of the lever mech should ensure the required throw?

Yes and no because travel total to fully engage and disengage will depend on clutch wear. Spec in the book is lever free play, a spec that guarantees full release and engagement of the clutch using OEM components. So if your lever has the proper free play, you should be fine provided it’s OEM stuff. If not, well, that’s a crap shoot them. 
 

Get a set of OEM or OEM spec levers. Shouldn’t be too hard or too expensive. 

[skipperT]

14 hours ago, AndyW said:

Surely the throw of the actuator arm has to be a set measurement (within a range) to guarantee clutch disengagement?

The bar lever may move a different distance but the 'gearing' of the lever mech should ensure the required throw?

Ordinarily I'd go for decent levers but I'm not wanting to put more money into this bike right now unless I absolutely have to.

Thanks 👍 

The “throw” should be enough, but the distance changes. 

and to prove it. I went to the garage and measured mine. I have Pazzo levers, stock levers will be different. 
They have an adjustable 4 or 5 position “reach”. 
in the closest position: 10.5mm of travel. 
in the furthest position: 14mm of travel. 

I also have heated grips which are thicker than stock grips (decreasing the distance the clutch lever can move)
 

by “travel” I measured the arm movement at the clutch cover as you requested above. 
Yamaha sets “clutch lever free play” by measuring at the end of the clutch lever. Full details are in the SM. 10-15mm at the end of the lever, or insert the smallest width of your Ignition key (where the attachment hole is located) into the “gap” at the pivot point of the clutch perch when the lever is fully out and then moved in lightly to take up the cable/clutch pivot slack.
This is also a good visual indicator. 
 

@AndyW take that lever off and make sure the pivot bushing is present! I realize it’s a pain with the stock hand guards but it’s the only way to be sure. 

-S

Edited 23 hours ago by skipperT

[skipperT]

2 hours ago, miweber929 said:

Yes and no because travel total to fully engage and disengage will depend on clutch wear. Spec in the book is lever free play, a spec that guarantees full release and engagement of the clutch using OEM components. So if your lever has the proper free play, you should be fine provided it’s OEM stuff. If not, well, that’s a crap shoot them. 
 

Get a set of OEM or OEM spec levers. Shouldn’t be too hard or too expensive. 

Not just wear, any difference from an OEM Yamaha lever will ultimately affect the travel total. 
-S

[skipperT]

8 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Why?

I'll try to measure...

Your measurement may also be different 2and3, because IIRC you changed your pivot to a shorter R1 or FZ6 pivot, correct? 
-S