Adjusting chain tracer 9 gt

[Chowda]

I cleaned/oiled the chain and adjusted it yesterday. The manual states to adjust it while on the centerstand and to measure from the bottom of the chain guard to the center of a link with the chain pushed down.

When it's on the sidestand (kickstand) the chain seems awful tight. It'd be even tighter with my weight on it. 

Any advice on how to properly set the chain or am I doing it correctly?

The manual states the slack should be 1.77" to 1.97" on the centerstand.

 

[Chowda]

My ocd/paranoia got the best of me and I loosened it slightly. If you have a better method to adjust chain slack please share it.

Edited August 5 by Chowda

[OZVFR]

2 hours ago, Chowda said:

I cleaned/oiled the chain and adjusted it yesterday. The manual states to adjust it while on the centerstand and to measure from the bottom of the chain guard to the center of a link with the chain pushed down.

When it's on the sidestand (kickstand) the chain seems awful tight. It'd be even tighter with my weight on it. 

Any advice on how to properly set the chain or am I doing it correctly?

The manual states the slack should be 1.77" to 1.97" on the centerstand.

 

No idea how to interpret that, adjust the chain so you have around 1.5" of up and down movement measured at the lower centre line of the chain where it has the most movement while on the centre stand an in neutral.

Only measure from one point, like centre pin, top of link or bottom, doesn't really matter.

Just make sure it moves up and down 1.5".

 

[Chowda]

Sorry if my description was unclear. Here's what my manual shows. The chain seems really tight when it's on the kickstand with the rear tire on the ground and some weight on the suspension. It seems it would get even tighter with my body weight on it. 

 

 

Edited August 5 by Chowda

[OZVFR]

I’ve never seen instructions like that to adjust a chain, and I’ve had more road bikes than I can remember. 
The original manual for the 15 was also completely wrong as it stated to adjust the chain way too tight. 
I’ve already seen 2 early FJ’s at the wreckers here with smashed crank case due to chain breaking. 

[OZVFR]

and I wasn’t referring to you not making sense, just those instructions. 

[etex]

nevermind

 

Edited August 5 by etex
nevermind

[Smokamoto]

The manual makes no sense regarding chain adjustment!

For all motorbikes (correct me if wrong) when the rear suspension is compressed to the point where the rear axle, swing arm pivot, and countershaft sprocket centerline are all lined up that is where the chain will be the tightest during suspension travel.

So first I rotate the rear wheel around to find the tightest spot of the chain (yes there’s tight & loose spots, even on new chains & sprockets-concentricity issues) then I’ve used a ratchet strap from the swing arm to the grab bar while leaning on the seat to get the three points lined up. Then I adjust the chain to the factory spec - regular, normal way of lifting the chain & measuring the distance. No need to remove the sprocket cover, you can eye ball approximate C/S sprocket centerline with the design features of the cover.

After doing that once, I make a note in my log book what the slack is in normal position (again at the tight spot) so no further need for the ratchet strap. I’m on vacation now so I don’t have that number available.

Heck-try it yourself and see what happens lol!

So…after recalling & writing all that, I seem to remember that the factory spec chain slack measurement is more than the point where the chain hits the swing arm rubber protector…again I’m not at home so unable to verify that. Being 68, having CRS (can’t remember shinola), and three bikes confuses things haha🤔!

[johnmark101]

Keep it simple.

Put the bike on the center stand.  The measurement should be taken halfway between the center of front and rear sprockets.  Push down on the chain at this point between the sprockets and start your measurement at this position.  Then push up and observe the distance covered.    

Note: the distance it moves down will be small compared to how much it moves up.   

Edited August 7 by johnmark101

[Eventhorizon]

On 8/5/2024 at 1:07 AM, Chowda said:

Sorry if my description was unclear. Here's what my manual shows. The chain seems really tight when it's on the kickstand with the rear tire on the ground and some weight on the suspension. It seems it would get even tighter with my body weight on it. 

 

 

45 mm is too tight.. it needs to be 47mm to be correct (or to start). I actually took apart the shock linkage and lifted the rear wheel so that the counter sprocket shaft, swing arm pivot, and rear axle were in line and adjusted to semi tight with a little bit of wiggle.

I have always keep the chain semi loose anyway and known when it needs to be adjusted by how the quick shifter acts or how much drive line lashing occurs before I readjust.

Free tool:
I took a piece of delrin plastic rod about 12mm round and put wedge point on one end (the point had a 1 mm flat spot so its not a sharp point but a semi blunt), and from the point to the bottom of the tool its 55mm total length.

I use this to check the slack on the tight spot of the chain. Go to the measuring point on the swing arm and put the point into the middle of the links and let the other side sit against the chain guard. It should be snug, and the total length from the middle of the chain links to the chain guard will be 47 mm.

By snug, you should be able to pull the chain and tool down and get about 1mm of air gap from the chain guard.

Its a lot easier then trying to pull the chain down and trying to measure with dirty hands.

If you want a picture of this let me know i'll get it for you.

Another tip:
Properly adjusted chain will barely touch the chain guard if you grab it and lift it up (at the proper measuring point). It should touch with some resistance but still make it.

Edited August 8 by Eventhorizon

[betoney]

1 hour ago, Eventhorizon said:

45 mm is too tight.. it needs to be 47mm to be correct (or to start). I actually took apart the shock linkage and lifted the rear wheel so that the counter sprocket shaft, swing arm pivot, and rear axle were in line and adjusted to semi tight with a little bit of wiggle.

I have always keep the chain semi loose anyway and known when it needs to be adjusted by how the quick shifter acts or how much drive line lashing occurs before I readjust.

Free tool:
I took a piece of delrin plastic rod about 12mm round and put wedge point on one end (the point had a 1 mm flat spot so its not a sharp point but a semi blunt), and from the point to the bottom of the tool its 55mm total length.

I use this to check the slack on the tight spot of the chain. Go to the measuring point on the swing arm and put the point into the middle of the links and let the other side sit against the chain guard. It should be snug, and the total length from the middle of the chain links to the chain guard will be 47 mm.

By snug, you should be able to pull the chain and tool down and get about 1mm of air gap from the chain guard.

Its a lot easier then trying to pull the chain down and trying to measure with dirty hands.

If you want a picture of this let me know i'll get it for you.

Another tip:
Properly adjusted chain will barely touch the chain guard if you grab it and lift it up (at the proper measuring point). It should touch with some resistance but still make it.

You put WAAAY too much thought into adjusting your chain.  Adjusting within 1mm?  Just make sure its not too tight and go ride it.

[Smokamoto]

Hahaha yeah, life IS too short, keep it simple. These answers are getting simpler & better!👍👍👍

Edited August 8 by Smokamoto