Throttle body clean question.

[2and3cylinders]

I cleaned mine after removing them but they weren't that dirty at 65k miles, no where near as bad as Quaxum's!

Cleaned them with spray carb cleaner and compressed air, exactly as I clean carbs (The FJ09 is my first FI, ABS, TC & USD fork equipped bike!).

There was light to medium carbon film that the carb cleaner didn't touch but that wiped off eventually with a soft cotton cloth.

I couldn't tell if the internal passages were that clogged but the carb spray seemed to blast through them.

Did the return spring tension mod but next time in there will add back a bit more resistance.

I replaced the cables because they seemed worn and as they're relatively inexpensive and offered the opportunity to inspect, clean and lube the heated throttle grip cable loop assembly.

Replaced the clutch cable (the newer version) with a custom longer cable from Barnett Engineering from which they cannibalized the top 90 degree tube for their new cable per my specifications.  They were pretty close and now there is adequate length to accommodate my new +1" up & .75" rearward handlebar riser inserts. I also have Renthal Street Naked bars that are taller (rise), a bit wider (I trimmed them an inch to match stock length / width) with a fair amount more reward sweep. 

Some people say there's no need to lube the throttle and clutch cables because the have Teflon lined inner sheaths but I say what can some clear extreme pressure silicone hurt  as longe as you're in there (I like Cable Life lube though), and Barnett also recommends silicone lube.

Don't forget to clean and grease the throttle tube handlebar interface!

[dazzler24]

2 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I cleaned mine after removing them but they weren't that dirty at 65k miles, no where near as bad as Quaxum's!

Cleaned them with spray carb cleaner and compressed air, exactly as I clean carbs (The FJ09 is my first FI, ABS, TC & USD fork equipped bike!).

There was light to medium carbon film that the carb cleaner didn't touch but that wiped off eventually with a soft cotton cloth.

I couldn't tell if the internal passages were that clogged but the carb spray seemed to blast through them.

Did the return spring tension mod but next time in there will add back a bit more resistance.

I replaced the cables because they seemed worn and as they're relatively inexpensive and offered the opportunity to inspect, clean and lube the heated throttle grip cable loop assembly.

Replaced the clutch cable (the newer version) with a custom longer cable from Barnett Engineering from which they cannibalized the top 90 degree tube for their new cable per my specifications.  They were pretty close and now there is adequate length to accommodate my new +1" up & .75" rearward handlebar riser inserts. I also have Renthal Street Naked bars that are taller (rise), a bit wider (I trimmed them an inch to match stock length / width) with a fair amount more reward sweep. 

Some people say there's no need to lube the throttle and clutch cables because the have Teflon lined inner sheaths but I say what can some clear extreme pressure silicone hurt  as longe as you're in there (I like Cable Life lube though), and Barnett also recommends silicone lube.

Don't forget to clean and grease the throttle tube handlebar interface!

Thanks 2and3.

As I just mentioned on another thread I'm now going to pull my throttle bodies for a good inspection and clean.... if they need it or not.

I see you said that you had trouble getting a good sync after the clean on your bike?

I've decided to not do the throttle spring mod after all as I get enough 'twitch' on our bumpy roads as it is.

Funny you mention the clutch cable as I re-routed mine while I've got the bike pulled down from the OEM path in the manual, up to follow the throttle cables.  Did that for the same reason as you i.e. I've got bar risers and swept bars and while the clutch cable worked in the 'proper' path I always felt that it was just that little bit on the short side especially when turning the bars to the right.  Got the tip from @betoney by accident in another thread about where to run the clutch cable.

[2and3cylinders]

5 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Thanks 2and3.

As I just mentioned on another thread I'm now going to pull my throttle bodies for a good inspection and clean.... if they need it or not.

I see you said that you had trouble getting a good sync after the clean on your bike?

I've decided to not do the throttle spring mod after all as I get enough 'twitch' on our bumpy roads as it is.

Funny you mention the clutch cable as I re-routed mine while I've got the bike pulled down from the OEM path in the manual, up to follow the throttle cables.  Did that for the same reason as you i.e. I've got bar risers and swept bars and while the clutch cable worked in the 'proper' path I always felt that it was just that little bit on the short side especially when turning the bars to the right.  Got the tip from @betoney by accident in another thread about where to run the clutch cable.

Daz

Could you please graphically show the reroute either by marking up a copy of the OM cable routing graphic, and attached a jpeg of it? Or do your own sketch and description?

I also rerouted the throttle cables, as they were at the end of their rope also due to the bar riser inserts & AM bars.  Off-hand, I can't remember exactly my new route but it did help, and though this is no change if rpm lock to lock the throttle cables, I still feel resistance turning the bars.  I think the clutch cable also contributes to this resistance as well.

Oh, and I still recommend doing the throttle return spring tension mod.  It's effect is wonderful and realy makes a difference, especially for older wrists. As I said, I can easily add another hole, and it's totally reversable.

Tanks MBT70 Spaced Armor DE

[dazzler24]

10 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Daz

Could you please graphically show the reroute either by marking up a copy of the OM cable routing graphic, and attached a jpeg of it? Or do your own sketch and description?

I also rerouted the throttle cables, as they were at the end of their rope also due to the bar riser inserts & AM bars.  Off-hand, I can't remember exactly my new route but it did help, and though this is no change if rpm lock to lock the throttle cables, I still feel resistance turning the bars.  I think the clutch cable also contributes to this resistance as well.

Oh, and I still recommend doing the throttle return spring tension mod.  It's effect is wonderful and realy makes a difference, especially for older wrists. As I said, I can easily add another hole, and it's totally reversable.

Tanks MBT70 Spaced Armor DE

Your wish is my command 2and3.

Thought I'd just show photos while it's apart ATM.

 

Now run through hole with throttle cables -

 

Routed over the top and slightly behind the starter motor -

 

OEM service manual recommended path showing the approx 'gain' in extra slack I'm getting in red -

 

HTH.

[2and3cylinders]

Maybe I wouldn't of needed a custom longer clutch cable?

Now I have to take a look again if the throttle cables and electrical wiring can be re-routed better than I did before.

2 weeks + 2 days and counting down 😉😉nudge nudge need I say more...

[skipperT]

Guys please promise me you haven’t zip tied the throttle cables to anything? I could be mistaken Daz but I thought one of your pics showed that…

they should NOT be strapped to the main harness or anything else. Yamaha keeps them that way to prevent a binding situation. 
cheers

skip

[dazzler24]

Righto.  Decided to not pull the throttle bodies after all after having a gander down the tubes from above.

They looked pretty clean so I've done what most here have suggested and used a very a small dowel with microfibre cloth wrapped around it to get down in there and gently cleaned what I could reach.  Also sprayed some carb cleaner onto the cloth for good measure.

They all came up really well so I'm happy.

 

Noticed some small amount of crud deep down around where the intake valves poke through.  Not a lot but I'm assuming normal??  I couldn't get a good shot of it but you can just see some in this out of focus pic.

BTW What tools do those that have removed the bodies use to get access to those 4mm bottom clamps?  I'm assuming a long flex shaft with a ball type 4mm hex on the end and come in from the side through the frame?  Looks tricky to get access to them.

Anyway, thanks to all who advised. 👍

[skipperT]

3 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

Righto.  Decided to not pull the throttle bodies after all after having a gander down the tubes from above.

They looked pretty clean so I've done what most here have suggested and used a very a small dowel with microfibre cloth wrapped around it to get down in there and gently cleaned what I could reach.  Also sprayed some carb cleaner onto the cloth for good measure.

They all came up really well so I'm happy.

 

Noticed some small amount of crud deep down around where the intake valves poke through.  Not a lot but I'm assuming normal??  I couldn't get a good shot of it but you can just see some in this out of focus pic.

BTW What tools do those that have removed the bodies use to get access to those 4mm bottom clamps?  I'm assuming a long flex shaft with a ball type 4mm hex on the end and come in from the side through the frame?  Looks tricky to get access to them.

Anyway, thanks to all who advised. 👍

Looks good, Daz. That type of carbon build up is fairly typical. Run some RingFree plus and it’ll clear it right out. 
and yeah a long ball-end 3 or 4mm Allen socket gets in there, but usually a standard 1/4” drive Allen socket loosens it first, followed by the ball end. Otherwise too easy to strip out the wrench or bolt head. 
-S

[dazzler24]

8 minutes ago, skipperT said:

Guys please promise me you haven’t zip tied the throttle cables to anything? I could be mistaken Daz but I thought one of your pics showed that…

they should NOT be strapped to the main harness or anything else. Yamaha keeps them that way to prevent a binding situation. 
cheers

skip

I've been suitably chastised! 😲

I do have one cable tie loosely around the throttle cables to support the clutch cable at the point after they enter the frame.  I went through all the motions of stop to stop with the handlebars and checked throttle action to ensure that nothing was binding or interfering though?

But if you're saying it's not wise then the side cutters are at hand. 😄

[skipperT]

20 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

I've been suitably chastised! 😲

I do have one cable tie loosely around the throttle cables to support the clutch cable at the point after they enter the frame.  I went through all the motions of stop to stop with the handlebars and checked throttle action to ensure that nothing was binding or interfering though?

But if you're saying it's not wise then the side cutters are at hand. 😄

Naw, you do you. Good that you tested lock-to-lock and no change of idle noticed. 
-S

[dazzler24]

On 6/22/2024 at 3:44 PM, skipperT said:

Set all ex to 0.30mm. Screw middle of the spec when it comes to the exhaust valve lash on these engines. They run better and longer when set this may IMHPO. 
-Skip

Ok, changed out all of my exhaust valve shims to get as close to the magical 0.3mm lash by ordering 0.02 increment shims and used one 0.05 as well. Three of the six valves measured a 0.3+ and 0.3++ but from all reports they will only get tighter so I've left them at that slightly bigger gap and assume they'll bed in nicely.  Happy to hear from the wise if that's not a recommended approach?

I've called them 0.31 for the sake of the spreadsheet calculator.

Intakes didn't change from 1st reading so left them as they are - right in the middle of their range.

[skipperT]

3 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Ok, changed out all of my exhaust valve shims to get as close to the magical 0.3mm lash by ordering 0.02 increment shims and used one 0.05 as well. Three of the six valves measured a 0.3+ and 0.3++ but from all reports they will only get tighter so I've left them at that slightly bigger gap and assume they'll bed in nicely.  Happy to hear from the wise if that's not a recommended approach?

I've called them 0.31 for the sake of the spreadsheet calculator.

Intakes didn't change from 1st reading so left them as they are - right in the middle of their range.

Yup! I would say that’s bang on, @dazzler24  I would only caution that you should NOT be able to easily stuff a 0.33 feeler gauge in there - if it goes super tightly (like your depressing the tappet almost) then that’s ok. 
I find it easier to test the exhaust lash using the “lobes away” technique on TDC compression and insert the gauge from the spark plug well area as opposed to from the exhaust manifold area. For me it’s a more accurate measurement. 
but ultimately it’s a feel thing. 
this technique only works if there’s no decompression pin on the camshaft b/c then you have to pay attention to the timing marks more closely when measuring. 
-Skip

[2and3cylinders]

Yep yup yep

We doe need no stinkin timing marks

BTW, If you remove the timing chain tensioner shoe with the sprockets zip tied to the chain, you can literally hang one cam at a time from the frame with more zip ties, and have lots of room to play with the shims...

This means you should have a spare timing chain cover gasket but I've reused it at least 3 times.

You stuff a rag at the bottom spocket so the chain doesn't slip off and can then pull out the tensioner shoe. The latter is finicky about going back in, though with patience it reluctantly obliges.

[dazzler24]

10 hours ago, skipperT said:

Yup! I would say that’s bang on, @dazzler24  I would only caution that you should NOT be able to easily stuff a 0.33 feeler gauge in there - if it goes super tightly (like your depressing the tappet almost) then that’s ok. 
I find it easier to test the exhaust lash using the “lobes away” technique on TDC compression and insert the gauge from the spark plug well area as opposed to from the exhaust manifold area. For me it’s a more accurate measurement. 
but ultimately it’s a feel thing. 
this technique only works if there’s no decompression pin on the camshaft b/c then you have to pay attention to the timing marks more closely when measuring. 
-Skip

Hey skip thanks.

My technique is much as you described in that all measurements are made from the middle out (spark plug side) and I've looked to 'line up' the wear on the lobes with the top centre-line of the caps when the lobes are pointing away from each other to do each measurement.  I also use a length of small diameter cane inserted into the spark plug hole as a visual confirmation of reaching TDC on each measured cylinder. Hope that makes sense.

I have a set of angled 'tell' feelers and one of them is a 0.305mm and that was my guide. A 0.32 flat feeler combo would not go in.

4 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Yep yup yep

We doe need no stinkin timing marks

BTW, If you remove the timing chain tensioner shoe with the sprockets zip tied to the chain, you can literally hang one cam at a time from the frame with more zip ties, and have lots of room to play with the shims...

This means you should have a spare timing chain cover gasket but I've reused it at least 3 times.

You stuff a rag at the bottom spocket so the chain doesn't slip off and can then pull out the tensioner shoe. The latter is finicky about going back in, though with patience it reluctantly obliges.

Yes 2and3, I used cable ties on the sprockets and then loosened the timing chain tensioner bolts (not the adjuster) so that the timing chain had enough slack to enable me to just roll the exhaust cam up out of the way, as you described, and supported that with a re-useable cable tie around the fuel rail while I accessed the buckets and shims.

I didn't remove the timing chain cover and or tensioner shoe though but was careful to keep some tension on the chain to avoid it coming off at the bottom.

 

Had to remove left hand side Givi bars though so I could access the crank end bolt - a little annoying!

[2and3cylinders]

Daz, I posted somewhere some time ago if you search how I use a (14 mm?) ball end hex I ground down the end of to remove the crank bolt plug. Then you can get a socket and ratchet on the bolt without removing the case guards.