Throttle body sync

[bgigharbor]

Any concenses on a good set of gauges? Carbtune Pro, emgo, etc?
 
I think I'll get a set of four. 2 for beemers, 3 for fj and 4 for possible future use....
 
Sort of leaning towards the carbtune 4 as I used to use that style gauges years ago.

[estell]

Any concenses on a good set of gauges? Carbtune Pro, emgo, etc? 

Been covered. See the link for a few good reasons to choose Motion-pro. 

[kiwicanuck]

I am hoping to buy the same gear as you piotrek and do the sync over winter now my bike is at 7k and iam sure dealer never did it at 1k service.

[cbr600]

My hat off to you sir. I started doing this until I saw the limited space to start even removing some of the parts to get to screws, hose connect points, etc.
 
I closed it all up and payed the shop to do it. That claim nothing had to be done.

[cbr600]

That's how I felt about it. The work order did not even have it listed as something that was done! When I asked they told me it was done. I really just hope they did it. And there's not that many other shops around that can do it.

[nnamssorxela]

This thread is the first result when you google "FJ-09 throttle body sync," so I thought I'd throw my results in here.
 
Months ago I synced at my throttle bodies but I focused more on my trouble area of 4,500-5,000 RPM because that made logical sense and I figured it couldn’t hurt much to try. The bike was smoother than before, but not a huge improvement. I was still getting excessive vibrations at 4.5-5k that were so uncomfortable, I avoided that range whenever possible.
 
It seems that most manuals for most multi-cylinder bikes (some big twins excluded) specifically state that the sync should be performed at idle. I asked about this on another forum and received some great information:
 
“Being out of sync has the most effect on idle, small throttle openings and throttle response at small openings. At wider openings, small mis-adjustments have less effect the more the throttle is opened.“
 
This makes perfect sense, and someone else had another great point; since there is no load on the motor, syncing at higher RPM is likely very inaccurate.
 
Recently I dropped a socked under my tank and had to take the tank off to reach it, so I figured I would visit the sync again while I was there. I re-synced at idle and the result was a much smoother running bike. YMMV.
 

[2and3cylinders]

I likewise check the sync at idle (airbox off on the FJ-09, not always required if you read on) and found it almost dead nuts on but still tweaked it because I'm a AR/OCD type A and to bring it also closer in the 4 ~ 6k RPM range. I did this after installing 3.5 mm hoses (without clamps because they're a very snug fit) that extend to the left side opening of the frame. At the ends of the hoses I inserted 5/32" barbed hose connectors (I had to buy online) to which my ancient PCCC manometer connects (yes that is real mercury in dem der tubes and I also have a TwinMax electronic balancer but since it only has two hose connections I did not want to have to keep swapping one hose between the 2 other cylinders). I used the OEM TB port caps with their clips to seal the end of my extension hoses, which neatly tucked up within ready reach under the tank so I can at least check TB sync in 5 minutes without first having to field strip the bike.