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Installing new Engine 2015-FJ09


redfjniner

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I'd still take it easy given you never got out of 2nd. Did you check valve lash?

By "HOT", do you mean literally or figuratively?  Meaning quick?

I hope this is the last time you have to do something like this.  Something I now will think long and hard about doing given your experience.

 

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6 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I'd still take it easy given you never got out of 2nd. Did you check valve lash?

By "HOT", do you mean literally or figuratively?  Meaning quick?

No, I did not check valve lash (clearance).  It was shown that the engine only had 4,000 miles on it.  I am assuming that was correct and will do a valve check at 15K, since these engines have shown that the exhaust valves get tight soon, as you have shown us with your more frequent checking.

HOT as in the babe (hunk) walking down the street not as in McD's coffee.

Anyway, I need to observe someone doing a valve check before I attempt it.  I know, if I can remove and install an engine, make special tools, etc., I should be able to follow the manual and do a valve check. (and maybe a valve adjust too).

 

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Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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23 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

OK, 4k or not, I ass u me nothing and rarely trust anyone.  I presume the cam chain sounds good.  You can adjust it running...

I've posted how recently.

I looked, but couldn't find your post.  Give me a link. 

How to install APE CCT. 

 

Edited by redfjniner
Add video.

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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Yep, I remove the cam chain cover too.  With the valve cover off I check cam chain deflection between the cams (about 3/16") but if the valve cover is not off, the video is a good guide.  By keeping tension on the cam chain with the side cover off, it's straight forward.  When I need to remove the cams, after zip tiring the chain to the cam sprockets, I actually remove the tensioner slider to provide more slack so the cams can be moved clear of the buckets.

With the cam chain tension close, warm up the engine until the fan comes on and then some, then with the engine still running, back off the lock nut and tensioner bolt until it just starts to gently rattle, then turn in the bolt until it JUST stops rattling and while restraining the bolt tighten but not too tight the lock nut.  Then bring a 9/16" combo wrench and 4 mm hex wrench along on a decent ride and after a long hard pull, stop and recheck the adjustment.  You'll occasionally notice a rattle or two, being very slightly loose is better than too tight IMO.

GL!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good news.  I was able to take the bike out yesterday for a 25 mile ride.  This replacement engine has a slipper clutch.  I can up shift with ease and no clutch, and easily down shift with a blip of the throttle.  It will take a little getting used to, but Hey, I'm only 75 and learnable. 😊

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Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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I installed a 16 XSR900 slip/assist clutch and whereas my 15 has always shifted pretty slick it's not a dream (or as good as my VTR) but I've never really tried (maybe a couple of times) to downshift without the clutch...

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