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Yamalube 10w40 "mineral oil" why?


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I just did the 1000km oil change ( at 790 kms) and used a motorcycle specific 10w40 full synthtetic oil and a Yamaha filter. Why does Yamaha only sell the mineral based 10w40 Yamalube oil change kit on their Canadian website? Its 2021 and mineral based oil makes no sense. Im enjoying great shifter feel and now no issue with neutral anytime. If you want to purchase the full synthetic Yamalube you must go to the stealership as this is not sold online. Not sure why.

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11 hours ago, Garz747 said:

I just did the 1000km oil change ( at 790 kms) and used a motorcycle specific 10w40 full synthtetic oil and a Yamaha filter. Why does Yamaha only sell the mineral based 10w40 Yamalube oil change kit on their Canadian website? Its 2021 and mineral based oil makes no sense. Im enjoying great shifter feel and now no issue with neutral anytime. If you want to purchase the full synthetic Yamalube you must go to the stealership as this is not sold online. Not sure why.

They do. It's $17 more than the Dino version and the bottles are gold coloured.

https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/yamalube/motorcycles/yamaluber-10w-40-4t-performance-synthetic-oil-change-kit---mc-3-l/MCY-OILCH-KT-21

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2015 FJ-09 / FJR touring bags / oil plug mod / Evotech rad guard / SW Motech bash plate / VStream touring windshield / Seat Concepts:  Sport Touring / Vcyclenut ABS rings (speedo correction) / Cosmo RAM mount

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Oil discussions are dangerous but I just want to carefully insert my dealers stern advice just in case it helps anyone:

"This engine is not made to run on full synthetic. It needs the oil to be just a little sticky." I'm paraphrasing because it was a while ago.

The man is a perfectionist and holds the Japanese engineers in very high esteem and the way he further explained it made perfect sense to me back then. I have had such good experiences when switching to Motul 5100 10w40 in the past on other bikes that I might be biased towards it though. 😉

Anyway, switching to full synthetic has always felt like an internet myth to me. Just another thing from the racing world that found it's way to the forums, and now everyone repeats that it's the best but I never read anything that made me agree. And for this bike it is not better but worse according to a professional that I trust.

I'm sure that there are no real problems with running synthetic, but I will happily continue using semi synthetic.

Edited by petshark
spelling+grammar+added 5100 to motul
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1 hour ago, petshark said:

Oil discussions are dangerous but I just want to carefully insert my dealers stern advice just in case it helps anyone:

"This engine is not made to run on full synthetic. It needs the oil to be just a little sticky." I'm paraphrasing because it was a while ago.

The man is a perfectionist and holds the Japanese engineers in very high esteem and the way he further explained it made perfect sense to me back then. I have had such good experiences when switching to Motul 10w40 in the past on other bikes that I might be biassed towards it though. 😉

Anyway, switching to full synthetic has always felt like an internet myth to me anyway. Just another thing from the racing world that found it's way in the forums, and now everyone repeats that it's the best but I never read anything that made me agree. And for this bike it is not better but worse according to a professional that I trust.

I'm sure that there are no real problems with running synthetic, but I will happily continue using semi synthetic.

Holy hell, anecdotally I've always thought that Maxima's SynBlend ran the best in my 2015 FJ09 and I just blew it off as me being crazy, thank you for the vindication. Maybe I'll try MOTUL's 5100 semi-synth next change for farts and giggles.

Not sure about "normal" full synthetics but I've noticed the CP3 absolutely shreds 100% ester based oils: I've tried 2 MOTUL oils (7100 & 300v), and Maxima's Extra4 and it all of them have performed beautifully but then sheared down a rating within 1000mi. I know the 300v & Extra4 are all advertised as racing oils and are meant to be ran hard at the track then changed out, so I suppose they're doing what they're designed for; so I think there's some truth in your "just another thing from racing world" speculation. 

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47 minutes ago, jthayer09 said:

Holy hell, anecdotally I've always thought that Maxima's SynBlend ran the best in my 2015 FJ09 and I just blew it off as me being crazy, thank you for the vindication. Maybe I'll try MOTUL's 5100 semi-synth next change for farts and giggles.

You have experimented a lot with oils more than me so if you do try it, I'd love to hear about it! (minus the farts 😆)

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11 hours ago, iamthedruman said:

The oil change kit includes two O rings.  What are they for???

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When I originally searched it just showed the dino oil for the Tracer 900.  Another site does show the synthetic. Thanks.   Price is livable as well for CDN $ as stealership charged $23 just for filter. The o rings are for other Yamaha products that utilize cartridge rather than spin on filters and possibly an o ring at the fill plug.

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11 hours ago, Warchild said:

Semi-synthetic    🙂

 

OilChangeBeforeIdaho.thumb.jpg.ac75e0a9c782c2ec5126f5d63a2af19e.jpg

 

 

I’m not sure if I get it. It this about the missing hyphen? 🧐

if so, I confess that I don’t type any hyphens at all while blind/speed typing. It’s not in my muscle memory.. Sometimes I add them after but sometimes I don’t if I don’t feel like it.  😋

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2 hours ago, petshark said:

I’m not sure if I get it. It this about the missing hyphen? 🧐

if so, I confess that I don’t type any hyphens at all while blind/speed typing. It’s not in my muscle memory.. Sometimes I add them after but sometimes I don’t if I don’t feel like it.  😋

He's making a joke that he's combining 1L of dino-oil with 2L of full synthetic shown in picture which comes out to be "semi-synthetic".

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