Tracer GT power outlet

[PeterL]

As others have previously noted, the "power outlet" Yamaha saw fit to install on the Tracer GT is fused for only 2 amps, insufficient to reliably run even a small compressor to top up your tires. This is totally inconceivable to moi, especially on a motorcycle with touring pretensions. Dunno about you, but I check my tires every morning, and I don't always wake up within easy reach of a gas station, or even a non-pit toilet. Self-sufficiency makes life  SO much easier!

I decided to make just a *few* alterations:

• Turn the 2a feed into a trigger for a power relay, this drawing up to 30a max direct from the battery via a fused cable
• install a weatherproof heavy-duty power outlet in place of Yamaha's lightweight unit
• install a dual USB QC 3.0 outlet (also weatherproof) on the opposite side of the dash. This is backwards compatible for older devices, but it will fast-charge a current-gen smartphone in a fraction of the time a standard 2a feed would take.

Sounds simple enough, right? HAH!  First off, Yamaha saw fit to design those openings to be -just- that much smaller in diameter than a normal through-dash device requires. Why? Dunno. It's not like they get any financial advantage out of making things NON-standard. It's nothing that a few minutes with a Dremel can't fix, but it's still stupid and annoying.

Next up, most who contemplate doing this would likely just zip-tie the relay in place and call it good. Not me. I was compelled to spend a couple of days modeling a relay-mount in CAD, running it through my 3d printer, making alterations, print again, and so on.  After a few go-rounds, I cheerfully emerged from my lair with a two-plate system that clamps securely about the metal windshield/dash support and which lets me bolt the relay -bracket- firmly in place, allowing for easy swapping of the relay itself if it ever fails, without bothering the wiring in the least. (retired engineer here, I _always_ try to anticipate failures and ease repair time and effort [mine]) FWIW, the concept is to minimise impact shock from an unsecured mass bouncing around. This way, whilst you get the unavoidable vibration any vehicular component is subject to, the relay is securely held to the metal support structure and cannot gyrate around and damage either itself or the insulation on live wiring.

The takeoff from the battery was via two rIng terminals, through a weatherproof ATC fuse holder, left conveniently resting directly atop the battery for ease of access. 14AWG cabling was run under the plastics and terminated behind the dash with the relay itself.

Once the hardware bits were in place, time to do up the wiring (standard 12v 4-pole (er, I meant to type 4-PIN [thank you "duckie"]) relay spec:

• post# 85 connects to -12v (NEGATIVE) from the vehicle battery
• post# 86 connects to the POSITIVE lead from the old power outlet feed. This is your trigger, so the outlets will only be live when the key is ON.
• post# 87 connects to +12v (POSITIVE) from the vehicle battery
• post# 30 feeds +12v  to both the power (formerly 'cigarette') receptacle and USB outlets. Yes this gives a common point of failure to both, but the alternative of doing two separate relays just did not seem worth the bother at this point. Relay failures are rare, and I am only running this at 2/3 capacity max (rated and wired for 30a, fused for 20).

OK- _IF_ you have Yamaha's heated seat, their control switch is meant to fit into that 'empty' dash space. The fact that it is difficult to operate while in motion evidently escaped the designers scrutiny. Color ME shocked. These being the same designers who placed the (heavily used) menu scroll wheel on the THROTTLE grip while placing other less critical switchgear (Drive modes anyone?) on the left side, even though that can ONLY be changed whilst at a stop. Honestly, do any of these people actually RIDE the stuff they design? Not more than once is my guess... At any rate, my next project post will likely cover the infinitely-adjustable  PWM controller with digital readout I'm currently ginning up to replace said seat-heat switch. Stay tuned.

For anyone who might care to make use of it- I've posted the STL files for the bracket pieces on Thingiverse.com, along with assembly instructions here.

Ride safe y'all!

Edited June 3, 2021 by PeterL
misspoke and corrected

[whisperquiet]

I have a simpler set up.  A battery tender cable from the battery fused at 15a and a SAE wired 12v port to use a compressor if necessary.

I use the OEM 12v port to charge my cell phone only and have my Garmin hardwired to the aux/acc wiring under the windshield.

 

 

Edited June 2, 2021 by whisperquiet

[knyte]

45 minutes ago, whisperquiet said:

 A battery tender cable from the battery fused at 15a and a SAE wired 12v

Same here.  RKA bags can be had with this wire (the inside of the bag has two USB charge ports, so that's where the gadgets go), so I set it up similar as you.

The Garmin has its own dedicated power cable.

This means the Yamaha power port doesn't get used at all - don't need it!  Too annoying and fiddly.

2 hours ago, PeterL said:

Self-sufficiency makes life  SO much easier!

Well said.  Epic engineering exercise with solid results!  Very cool.

[PeterL]

Not arguing with any of this. I have a Battery Tender cable as well, pretty much the first mod I do on any bike I have. BUT-

1. I don't like having to dig under the seat for it every time, as I do not care to leave the live cable hanging out where anyone could mess with it.
2. I wanted the dash to be functional, within my rather demanding definition of the term.

Now I can safely drive pretty much any accessory that runs on 12v, and I can charge two USB devices simultaneously at pretty much the max rate possible for each device. The fact that the USB charger incorporated a digital voltmeter as well was an unlooked-for but appreciated bonus feature.

Engineering isn't a job (at least the way I always have done it), it's more a way of looking at the world and making it do what you want, exactly how you want it done. (There is NOTHING worse than a bored engineer. You have absolutely no idea what will happen next. But you are very right to be worried!) 

Cheers to all.

Edited June 2, 2021 by PeterL

[duckie]

FWIW, that is not a 4 pole relay. It is a single pole, single throw relay. 

[PeterL]

Corrected and attributed. Thanks! 

[DavidS]

Maybe I'm missing something, and it wouldn't be the first time either........

I just plug in a simple cigarette lighter USB adapter plug, and now I can plug my cord into the USB adapter and it charges while I ride.

WARNING: If your phone is mounted to your motorcycle this works perfectly, but if you keep your phone in on your body, say in a jacket pocket, it could cause an issue if you have an accident. (You are connected to your motorcycle by this cord)  My personal evaluation is that the plug would just get pulled out if you had an accident, but you should evaluate that risk before you tether yourself to your motorcycle. 

 

 

[jcarruth]

Probably does not make a lot of difference, but you have terminals #30 and #87 reversed on your relay diagram. #30 is fused (+) 12v in, #87 is switched 12v, high amp, out.

Also, your relay should ideally be diode protected between terminals #85 and #86 to eliminate voltage spikes back into your bike's sensitive electrical system.

I run #87 to a small fuse box to allow for multiple switched, fused outputs i.e.: heated gear, heated seat, loud horn, gps, whatever.