knyte

...anyone here familiar with these bikes? I've got the Clymer manual, and installed a BBR Big Bore Kit (so the XR100 is now an XR120 lol), but it's still burning oil, and I'm not sure why. Next step is (I guess) to pop the jug off again and check the rings; ensure they're indexed, but they should be.

Oh nice! Seems like there's a few of us from 'berta here.

Especially against that satin black paint

Inverse display; interesting. Did you do that?

The FJ's clutch baskets are pretty noisy, too.

Looks great!! Sooo jelly. Same. People sure look at me funny when I tell them that.

Guessing it's this article? https://advrider.com/honda-nt1100-tourer-unveiled-for-europe/

I had to move the shifter up a spline when I got my touring boots, too. It's easy.

This post & thread probably has all you'd be looking for:

When I bought my new-to-me '15 FJ it had a similar endless chain (complete with shredded o-rings!) with no appreciable master link. So I just used a chain splitter on a random link; problem solved.

I can't wait to do that trip in the spring. I'd go this weekend, too, if not for other plans. Going through Banff probably?

As @peteinpa mentioned, the twitchy throttle can be adjusted (I've yet to do this to mine): Many folks don't care for the stock seat - I found the fwd slope crushed my berries, so fitted mine with a Seat Concepts foam & cover. The seat feels great now; even more so after being broken in a bit.

Welcome How many miles on the soon-to-be-new-to-you FJ? I've had mine up to ~160 km/h (~100 mp/h) with no issues whatsoever; using a VStream touring windscreen.

My bad, a bit tough to see the hash mark in the photo and I haven't looked at my bike in a few days... Even so, it still looks overfull to me.

Great pics, love it

A couple of things come to mind. First, oil level in the sight glass is with the bike standing, not on the sidestand. If this photo is of an upright bike, it's definitely overfull. Your oil should be between the lines, which would be roughly here: It's likely FAR faster to pull the drain plug to rid the excess. Next, ensure the Run/Stop switch is on Run, then insert the key and turn the key to ON - you'll hear the pump for a second or two - that will prime the fuel system. Last, I doubt you ran it long enough for permanent damage, but it's bad to run overfull because excess pressure will build up, and there's only one way to relieve it - and that's past the piston rings. So you're right, you might be due for some new plugs too. If you pull them and they're black, there's your answer - oil - which has likely fouled your plugs. Did you happen to notice any blue smoke when it ran last? If you did, that'd be oil burning. I bet if you drain out the excess, replace the plugs - it's probably OK. You won't find an easy fix for excessive oil in the crankcase because it's not an easy fix. Permanent damage can occur with the rings = engine out rebuild. And don't feel bad - I'm about to rebuild an 87 XR100 to a 120cc (BBR Big Bore kit) because of the exact same issue - excess oil damaged the rings, and now with a new plug it runs for about 15 / 20 mins before the plug fouls and it won't run at all.

yep this is our situation. There are also tenders out there that perform periodic discharge / charge cycles to prevent exactly what you describe. To take that another step further, there are lithium iron batteries that don't need a tender, don't degrade nearly as quickly, and are FAR more efficient - but also $$$. It might be important to note that a battery tender and a battery charger are two different things.

Agree with all the above - if it sat without being used regularly or otherwise connected to a tender, it'll degrade over time. When I bought my (used) FJ, I didn't mess around - I just replaced the battery. I had to assume that, as a consumable, it may be bad / degraded / unreliable, so that was literally the first thing I did (second was chain & sprockets because... o-rings). The replacement is exercised frequently, and in the winter months it is removed from the bike and on a tender. In all of our vehicles (two & four) we've never had a failure with this practice, except the Optima died in my SUV last year - after ~8 years of solid & reliable service. I've seen flooded lead/acid last well over 5 years if not longer with proper maintenance - let them sit around and you'd lucky to get two.

Beautiful area, Dad and I rode through there this summer. Just gorgeous, and twisties everywhere So your winter should be close to mine...eh you should be fine

Where are you in BC?

I've stored mine covered, but outside, with temps dropping to around -35 deg C at times - battery out and on a tender, of course, and a bit of stabilizer & Seafoam in the tank (stabilizer is probably unnecessary because I try to fill up with Shell premium - meaning 0% ethanol), as well as a bit of methyl hydrate. The methyl hydrate is probably all it really needs. Stored for ~4 months, give or take 2 or 3 weeks. Fresh oil change (synth) in the fall before covering it up. Anyway, come spring - install battery, turn the key and it fires right up like nothing happened.

+1 to that I do like Google Maps for the features (Saved, Want to Go, lists, sharing, etc) but fones can be super fiddly at a time when you just need simple (and durability).

Yeah, industrial manufacturing has scaled down to home manufacturing, for sure. It's a sizable disruption. I'm just glad we have someone like @Clegg78to solve & contribute.

There sure are O-rings. There is also a 'transfer tube' that's more like an aluminum collar - it just connects the water pump to the engine block: The transfer tube goes here: But if you've never had this apart, I doubt it's the issue. You'd know by the colour of your oil, or it'd weep on the outside of the case.

Entire FJ-09 / Tracer community: I hatez the seatz @Clegg78: hold my beer