knyte

BBR says the stock breather is fine up to 120cc, which this is now. It's black, but I'm sure it's oil because I installed smaller jets (one size down from stock - BBR recommends one or more size up, but I'm at a bit of altitude) and leaned out the mixture screw to 1 turn out (stock is 2 3/4 turns out). The plan is to pop the jug off and try something different with indexing the rings. I noticed a puff of air from the oil filler tube last night when pushing the kickstarter down, so I'm 99% convinced I've screwed up the ring indexing.

Thanks for the suggestions. Gives me some leads.

The kit comes with all of that, so all components are already right-sized and ready to install as-is (with assembly oil of course): https://bbrmotorsports.com/Products/Products.aspx?Prod=411-HXR-1001

It has been, very much so We're basically in it for a full on restore at this point, lol. I've only listed what went into the engine (so far). We've already done tires / chain & sprockets, throttle & cable, carb kit & jets, petcock, fork seals, brakes, and a folding shift lever. All that's left is paint and some plastics, and triple tree bearings. I don't think anything is cracked...what with a new cylinder, and all. It's not smoking much, just a wee bit with some throttle. The plug comes out...coated, but not exactly wet. Almost like a black dust. And yes, I intentionally underfilled it a wee bit just in case. One thing I haven't done yet, and will soon, is check the oil screen - although I can't see that being at play?

1987. Running dino oil and premium fuel as recommended by BBR. Used assembly oil (motorcycle oil) or moly disulfide grease where instructions called for it. Replaced: Connecting rod wrist pin/piston/rings/cylinder/valve springs/rockers (all part of the BBR kit) Any/all gaskets and seals along the way, including valve seals. After reassembly the jug / head of course was all clean - it ran GREAT (first kick) for about 20 mins / 1/2 hour and the plug fouled with oil. Cleaned it up and ran it again for about 10 minutes. Pulled the plug and it's black again. The only place I think of where oil might get into the chamber other than valve seals would be rings. I think it was running rich, too, so leaned it out with smaller jets and turned the mixture screw in a bit (I'm at ~2000 feet and it was all stock jetting, which I think is meant for closer to sea level). I think it's too lean now, but ez enough to enrichen a bit more. It's a bit tough to read the plug with all that bloody oil all over it.

...anyone here familiar with these bikes? I've got the Clymer manual, and installed a BBR Big Bore Kit (so the XR100 is now an XR120 lol), but it's still burning oil, and I'm not sure why. Next step is (I guess) to pop the jug off again and check the rings; ensure they're indexed, but they should be.

Oh nice! Seems like there's a few of us from 'berta here.

Especially against that satin black paint

Inverse display; interesting. Did you do that?

The FJ's clutch baskets are pretty noisy, too.

Looks great!! Sooo jelly. Same. People sure look at me funny when I tell them that.

Guessing it's this article? https://advrider.com/honda-nt1100-tourer-unveiled-for-europe/

I had to move the shifter up a spline when I got my touring boots, too. It's easy.

This post & thread probably has all you'd be looking for:

When I bought my new-to-me '15 FJ it had a similar endless chain (complete with shredded o-rings!) with no appreciable master link. So I just used a chain splitter on a random link; problem solved.

I can't wait to do that trip in the spring. I'd go this weekend, too, if not for other plans. Going through Banff probably?

As @peteinpa mentioned, the twitchy throttle can be adjusted (I've yet to do this to mine): Many folks don't care for the stock seat - I found the fwd slope crushed my berries, so fitted mine with a Seat Concepts foam & cover. The seat feels great now; even more so after being broken in a bit.

Welcome How many miles on the soon-to-be-new-to-you FJ? I've had mine up to ~160 km/h (~100 mp/h) with no issues whatsoever; using a VStream touring windscreen.

My bad, a bit tough to see the hash mark in the photo and I haven't looked at my bike in a few days... Even so, it still looks overfull to me.

Great pics, love it

A couple of things come to mind. First, oil level in the sight glass is with the bike standing, not on the sidestand. If this photo is of an upright bike, it's definitely overfull. Your oil should be between the lines, which would be roughly here: It's likely FAR faster to pull the drain plug to rid the excess. Next, ensure the Run/Stop switch is on Run, then insert the key and turn the key to ON - you'll hear the pump for a second or two - that will prime the fuel system. Last, I doubt you ran it long enough for permanent damage, but it's bad to run overfull because excess pressure will build up, and there's only one way to relieve it - and that's past the piston rings. So you're right, you might be due for some new plugs too. If you pull them and they're black, there's your answer - oil - which has likely fouled your plugs. Did you happen to notice any blue smoke when it ran last? If you did, that'd be oil burning. I bet if you drain out the excess, replace the plugs - it's probably OK. You won't find an easy fix for excessive oil in the crankcase because it's not an easy fix. Permanent damage can occur with the rings = engine out rebuild. And don't feel bad - I'm about to rebuild an 87 XR100 to a 120cc (BBR Big Bore kit) because of the exact same issue - excess oil damaged the rings, and now with a new plug it runs for about 15 / 20 mins before the plug fouls and it won't run at all.

yep this is our situation. There are also tenders out there that perform periodic discharge / charge cycles to prevent exactly what you describe. To take that another step further, there are lithium iron batteries that don't need a tender, don't degrade nearly as quickly, and are FAR more efficient - but also $$$. It might be important to note that a battery tender and a battery charger are two different things.

Agree with all the above - if it sat without being used regularly or otherwise connected to a tender, it'll degrade over time. When I bought my (used) FJ, I didn't mess around - I just replaced the battery. I had to assume that, as a consumable, it may be bad / degraded / unreliable, so that was literally the first thing I did (second was chain & sprockets because... o-rings). The replacement is exercised frequently, and in the winter months it is removed from the bike and on a tender. In all of our vehicles (two & four) we've never had a failure with this practice, except the Optima died in my SUV last year - after ~8 years of solid & reliable service. I've seen flooded lead/acid last well over 5 years if not longer with proper maintenance - let them sit around and you'd lucky to get two.

Beautiful area, Dad and I rode through there this summer. Just gorgeous, and twisties everywhere So your winter should be close to mine...eh you should be fine

Where are you in BC?