knyte

While I'm not at all in the habit of long idles, the odd occurrence doesn't bother me one bit. Engines are more efficient when they're warm (meaning: the warmer the thermostat cut off, the better - within limits, of course), so I've never felt the need to ensure any of my vehicles run cooler than what they were engineered for. It's not overheating when the fan starts - that's just temperature regulation at work. Now, if the fan doesn't stop and/or the temp doesn't drop - THAT's a problem.

Good to know!! I think this happened once and I chalked it up to a glitch.

Canadian VIN check: https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/vehicle-status-2 Odd, though, my VIN reads invalid. Dbl checked the registration, and it matches. Guess I need to have a closer look at the VIN plate.

That aluminum can must have a check valve in it?

I'm with you. Although I bought mine used, it had all the recalls taken care of. The only thing it needed out of the gate was chain and sprockets. For me the value is just tremendous; so much so that I just can't see buying a new one, even a GT spec, any time soon. Your review just solidifies that I made the right decision. I agree though, that quick shifter is tantalizing.

Very nice. That blue is a great colour.

I'm 6', 33" inseam, and thought the same thing. ...until my instructor kept harping on me to move my hips forward - it's actually more comfortable, and the bike is more stable. I mean, to each their own - ride how you're best comfortable, for sure. All that said, I don't care for the downward slope of the stock seat, either. Fixed that with a Seat Concepts kit.

I've done this with no issue at all, didn't have to disable TCS, and ABS will auto-calibrate when both wheels are turning and clear the light.

Good to hear; congrats!

Eggcellent, got another one Welcome!! I'd bet you will contribute lots - based on your experience(s).

You may have already figured this out: My g/f's Scottoiler has a simple tube running along the rear swingarm held in place with zip ties and dble sided tape (so as to be discrete, it's not horrid looking). Not kidding. In over 100,000 km's this has held up fine through all kinds of weather and road conditions with little fiddling. Hers is situated like so - such that the end of the tube rubs on the sprocket - this bit of friction creates the right shape for the tip: Idea being, it pumps out small amounts of oil right about there and flings outward from sprocket to the chain. Ez pz. Looks like you might have a more sophisticated setup.

Man that red absolutely pops in direct sunlight.

Been on vacation / away from the house for better than a week. The plan is to tackle the XR this week. Thanks for asking!! ...will def post results when the time comes.

It was a bit of effort to squeeze the ROKs through the tiny plastic loops, but completely worth it.

I got 4 of them for the loops inside my touring bags to secure the liners or whatever might be in there. Love them. Good to know they're a decent company, too.

My thoughts exactly BBR says this isn't needed, because it's a complete kit, made to spec. That said, it's worth a check, for sure. Yep this is part of the instructions / assembly process. Now this part was NOT mentioned in the instructions - anywhere. The factory piston does have a marking on it, but the BBR does not. I accidently found a vid where someone just randomly mentions one valve cutout on the new piston is larger than the other, and to orient it correctly. I honestly hadn't noticed this - they looked identical to me. Anyway it's something I'll absolutely be looking at. Apparently a somewhat common issue is the scraper ring can fold over. I don't think that happened, but I do suspect the corrugations may have overlapped when the ends should butt up against each other. It's not easy to ensure this during assembly. I'll just have to try it again Thanks for your thoughts...this is all valuable stuff

Yep, this one too. And, nk, CP3's are a treat to maintain compared to some bikes.

Agreed, on all counts. This one has over 130,000 kms and it seems like the valve seats are failing. Not bad, all things considered. Just really tricky to diag that - had to outsource this piece.

yeah, the first tear-down was with the engine removed, but now that I've done it once it's clear it can be done with it still in the bike. These things are pretty simple little bikes. It's what...7 bolts to get the cover, head, and cylinder off. I bet you wouldn't say that about a certain '03 BMW F650GS I know, haha...those Rotax engines are unlike any other when it comes to maintenance and troubleshooting, SHEESH!!

That's great to hear!! Sounds like the farkles were all really reasonable, too.

BBR says the stock breather is fine up to 120cc, which this is now. It's black, but I'm sure it's oil because I installed smaller jets (one size down from stock - BBR recommends one or more size up, but I'm at a bit of altitude) and leaned out the mixture screw to 1 turn out (stock is 2 3/4 turns out). The plan is to pop the jug off and try something different with indexing the rings. I noticed a puff of air from the oil filler tube last night when pushing the kickstarter down, so I'm 99% convinced I've screwed up the ring indexing.

Thanks for the suggestions. Gives me some leads.

The kit comes with all of that, so all components are already right-sized and ready to install as-is (with assembly oil of course): https://bbrmotorsports.com/Products/Products.aspx?Prod=411-HXR-1001

It has been, very much so We're basically in it for a full on restore at this point, lol. I've only listed what went into the engine (so far). We've already done tires / chain & sprockets, throttle & cable, carb kit & jets, petcock, fork seals, brakes, and a folding shift lever. All that's left is paint and some plastics, and triple tree bearings. I don't think anything is cracked...what with a new cylinder, and all. It's not smoking much, just a wee bit with some throttle. The plug comes out...coated, but not exactly wet. Almost like a black dust. And yes, I intentionally underfilled it a wee bit just in case. One thing I haven't done yet, and will soon, is check the oil screen - although I can't see that being at play?

1987. Running dino oil and premium fuel as recommended by BBR. Used assembly oil (motorcycle oil) or moly disulfide grease where instructions called for it. Replaced: Connecting rod wrist pin/piston/rings/cylinder/valve springs/rockers (all part of the BBR kit) Any/all gaskets and seals along the way, including valve seals. After reassembly the jug / head of course was all clean - it ran GREAT (first kick) for about 20 mins / 1/2 hour and the plug fouled with oil. Cleaned it up and ran it again for about 10 minutes. Pulled the plug and it's black again. The only place I think of where oil might get into the chamber other than valve seals would be rings. I think it was running rich, too, so leaned it out with smaller jets and turned the mixture screw in a bit (I'm at ~2000 feet and it was all stock jetting, which I think is meant for closer to sea level). I think it's too lean now, but ez enough to enrichen a bit more. It's a bit tough to read the plug with all that bloody oil all over it.