betoney

If you search the forum, there are several threads, with photos, that outline this procedure. Or look at the XSR service manual and match the part numbers in your kit.

Once you get the new suspension installed and dialed in, you're going to fall in love all over again with your bike!

I agree. The heated grips are worth their weight in gold. I also use a Tourmaster Heated Vest. I took a ride up to a ski resort last week where it was 2 degrees Celsius. Toasty warm. Did I mention it has a heated collar? 8-)

I would think that given the hoopla around this ''improved' platform, if things aren't apparent on a 20 minute ride (gadgets and the seat aside).... it won't be worth the swap, if that is the intent.... IMO. I agree with you, aside from the different shaped seat and narrower handlebars, most of the new models "improvements" are going to be creature comforts (cruise control, heated grips etc.) not something you would necessarily feel on a test ride. While the shock is supposed to have remote preload and the forks have compression adjustment, does that mean that they improved the spring rate or internal damping? I really hope the Tracer/Tracer GT is a sales grand-slam and other manufacturers see what a "stock" bike can offer. Congratulations to Yamaha for producing a feature packed bike instead of offering everything as an additional accessory.

If you order the kit from Partshark then it has everything you need for the conversion, there shouldn't be anything you are ordering separately. They compiled this kit to make the install process as simple as possible. Every part that you have listed (which is provided in the kit) is used in the swap along with your existing clutch plates. You will replace 3 new plates into your original clutch pack. If I remember correctly the first friction plate in and the last 2 friction plates are the ones you replace.

You can use a standard ratchet. You will need a special clutch holding tool to hold the basket when removing the nut. (do NOT try to take any short cuts or use improvised methods on this, you dont want a broken clutch basket) Buy a replacement nut and use Loc-Tite on the threads.

When I had my custom seat made, I was to told to put at least 1,000 miles on it before coming back in for any alterations. Right after getting it made we left on a 2,800+ mile trip to Utah. Plenty of time for break-in.

In the past I have had someone press down on the rear seat, raising the front end, while I slid a block under the header.

I have never used the method pictured but that location is where I put the floor jack whenever I raise the front end.

The seat looks great, I hope it works well for you. A custom/comfortable seat is worth its weight in gold.

I like it. The different color on the lip of the rim gives just the right amount of separation between the tire and rim. Maybe complete the look with the red model sticker on the radiator shroud.

I think that red reflective rim tape would match your bike better than silver. Taylor33 custom rim tape to match my blue fj-09. The tape is highly reflective and high quality. https://www.customtaylor33.com/shop/blue-high-intensity-rim-tape/ Everyone with a red bike uses the red rim tape, which is exactly why I went with a different color. I try to be a little different or have my bike unique in some way.

Stick with the reflective. The bonus visibility is unquestionable.Good point. Regardless of the color tint, they ARE eye catching.

I installed some silver reflective rim stripes. However at certain angles they almost look blue. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them or switch to the silver non-reflective that is a normal silver color.

Looking forward to hearing your impression of the exhaust/Flash combo. This exhaust is on my radar.

+1 I cant wait for the weather to improve so I can remove the battery tender for most of the rest of the year.

Fork Spring Compressor

@sheridan - if Matts DIY kit is as good as his complete forks, you are going to LOVE the result. Do you have the adjustable compression base bolt? I installed mine on the left leg (when sitting on the bike) so I just pull the axle about 2" to adjust. Small adjustments make a very noticeable change, it is a completely different ride with only 1/4 turn.

You are braver than I am. I'm sure I could manage the disassembly, but getting everything back together correctly would make me nervous. Good luck, I'm sure you will love the results. What is your plan for the shock?

It should be the same parts, and neither option should be easier than the other as its a very simple process.

@Trambo is also getting his ECU flashed, very interested in "seat-of-the-pants" before and after impressions with this exhaust.

In the 2 months I've been riding the system, I can firmly say that if there was any loss in performance at any point in the RPM range, my precision calibrated ass-dyno could not note the difference. Speaking of ass, a wild hair up it tonight prompted me to yank out the ecu for a reflash. It'll be off to FTECU tomorrow morning for flashing. This is just to smooth out the throttle map which did not change at all with the new exhaust. I figured it's outside of both the factory 1 year warranty and the extended 2 year warranty so why not... That sounds great, thanks for the quick reply! I have the standard flash for the stock exhaust.

Do you feel that there was any sacrifice of mid-range power to get the increased top end boost? Most of my riding is above 4500rpm but I rarely ride above 9k. I don’t want to lose any mid-range if I finally decide to get an exhaust.

Do you have any other modifications to your bike?I have the ECU flashed with the standard map. The engine, intake and exhaust are unmodified, though I do use the GYTR Air Filter.

Having ANY twisty road to yourself on a weekday is absolute heaven! With my work schedule I am off on Thursdays and Fridays. While everyone else is at work, I'm releasing the hooligan!