betoney

I put silver rim stripes on my red FJ. They come as a kit like you said, 4 stripes per each side of one wheel. I waited until I had the wheel off for new tires so I could have the wheel on a work bench for the install. I used very soapy water on the rim and installed one stripe and got it positioned then squeegee'd the excess water out, then repeated with the remaining stripes. Up close, my application isn't perfect but you have to look for the imperfections, they aren't readily obvious. The kit I bought came with a few extra stripes for trial and error, the first one can be frustrating until you get the feel for it and then the rest are pretty easy to apply.

@wordsmith - Great job, looks good and only a few $$$.

That 30K is for the fake exhaust sound. 🤣 " And just because it’s electric doesn’t mean motorcycle lovers have to sacrifice that distinctive rumble of speed. Harley says LiveWire is designed to produce “a new signature Harley-Davidson sound as it accelerates.”

Check the part number 2PP-26335-02. The -02 is the new revised version. And when you look at the cable, the upper end that goes into the clutch perch should have a smooth curve.

Photo of rear hugger mounted on the bike.

***UPDATE*** I ordered the one shown in the first post and just got it installed. Oem hugger is 8", this one is 14", much more splash protection. Make sure you can solve basic puzzles since this has no instructions, though after turning the brackets around a few times I figured it out. Build quality, fit and finish is very nice, no complaints for $42.

I am a huge fan of short brake levers (with standard length clutch) for both my street and dirt bikes. Funny thing, on my dirt bike, I brake with my index finger while on the street I use my middle finger? I have used Pazzo Levers for years and find them extremely comfortable, (once you use adjustable levers you will never use oem levers again) Pazzo lets you mix and match long and short levers when ordering. If you are going to use the cheap Chinese levers, look at MZS Levers, I bought a set to keep as spares and they are very high quality. Email them to make sure you get either short or long levers (they sell both).

Nice job on the install and thanks for sharing the procedure with others. I actually wish I had something to do to my bike over the winter, I love fiddling and tinkering. All of my seasonal maintenance was complete by Thanksgiving, fresh oil and filter, suspension refreshed with new seals and fluids and new tires. I'm already to hit the road but mother nature has other plans. 😪

Medium width flat-head screwdriver.

I agree, mine is very bright as well, even in daylight.

I use Google Maps all day, everyday for work, while it is fine for individual points, I dont like it for routing multiple destinations either. (to be fair, the faults could just be me) For the bike, I just use a Garmin GPS, I can type in many destinations and then "start navigation". If I need to make changes or stop navigating, the touch screen works with my gloves. I wish I could offer more help

If you need any advise on great roads around Washington or Oregon (and some in Idaho) just ask.

Lolo Pass is hard to beat on a beautiful day, I have ridden it late spring, summer, early fall and it is outstanding every time.

Very nice job machining your own parts. Looks great!!

I am doing the same in the rear. Its already too easy to get ABS to actuate, I dont want to increase that with HH pads.

@wordsmith - thats actually not a bad idea, there are enough holes on that rack that you could creatively adapt something. The rubber mount is a very specific size and shape though.

I had never used heated grips before this bike, now I dont know how I ever lived without them. They are expensive but worth every penny.

@wordsmith - If you look at the mount area on the tail tidy link I sent, the oval area where the oem signals mount is 7" wide and then the oem signals are about 5" each side? The center of that oval is 3" below the bottom of the brake light. I think it might be too wide for the hard cases, if you plan on keeping the oem signals.

Time flies by quicker than you think, @pattonme sent out the spacers this past March!! Glad you are finally getting around to this conversion, use heat on the rotor bolts when removing and maybe have a few spares in case they start to round out during removal, one of mine did. I have never used aftermarket rotors, are the EBC, Braking, Galfer etc. rotors supposed to have a higher friction material?

@wordsmith - use my photo as a rough guide for clearance on your cases. Also note that I do not use oem side cases or signals, I use Shad 36 cases and X-Arc LED signals.

I would say yes, they are necessary. You dont want a stone or other road debris to fly into your radiator, potentially cracking it or causing a leak. I actually had a bird fly into that area and cause quite a mess.

@wordsmith - Have you seen this Tail Tidy/ Fender Eliminator ? It sits a bit further back than some other brands which gives more clearance for lights when using side cases, the license plate light is directly under the rear brake light.

Yeah...sure... We've heard that one before. 😄

@xsquid - the only thing I can offer is to wait until you can ride it. I have had the code pop up a few times if I run it in gear on the center stand, I simply ride it down my street, stop and turn the key off, then ride back and the CEL Is gone.

@Ahmed - Ermax.com Make sure you read the description carefully, they offer a 2 and 3 piece version and in addition they have solid colors or 2-tone like I have.