betoney

That seems to be very common on the first valve adjustment. I wonder if they are that way upon assembly or they tighten up with mileage? Has anyone with higher mileage done a 2nd or 3rd valve check and found tight exhaust valves again? or only on the first time inspection?

To those who dont like the red ring on the outlet, do you think it possible to mask it off and use a fine modeling brush with high temp black paint? Might be worth considering. As far as them producing other colors... consider their company logo/slogan - "Blurple Power" just doesnt have the same effect.

As I posted above, I have the Rev'it Sand 2. As you can see they are not a gauntlet glove, the shorter length means the cuff of the gloves fits inside the jacket cuff, that could be a pro or con depending on your needs. They have ample ventilation and flow a lot of air, very nice summer glove! Sizing is typical Rev'it - meaning, in my experience they run a size small like their jackets. I usually wear an XL and had to buy XXL. The only downside is, they are advertised to have a "connect fabric" on the index finger for digital touch when using a GPS or smartphone, I found this to be hit and miss, mostly miss. My bulky winter gloves work much better with my GPS touch screen. YMMV. I have had them for one full riding season and so far dont have any seams unraveling or separation.

Not to hijack this thread but... For those needing tires, Bridgestone currently has a $60 rebate through April 30 I just picked up a set of their Battlax T31 S/T tires for about $230, with the rebate thats $170 a set! and the Battlax S21 Sport tire is only $126 after the rebate! The S21 is a GREAT sport tire, very neutral handling and phenomenal grip- even on wet or cold pavement. They would obviously wear too quickly for a longer road trip but for sporty weekend riding they cant be beat, especially with the $60 rebate. I'm on my 3rd set.

Have you considered Ceramic coating? I had the header on my previous FZ1 ceramic coated and it never corroded or discolored. I'm planning on getting the header on my FJ coated soon before riding season kicks into full gear.

I have the Sand 2 gloves. Indeed, they are awesome gloves!

@motopumps That looks so much better!

83 Degree Aluminum Valve Stems on Kurveygirl.com

The red ring on the exhaust outlet matches the red bike very nicely... just sayin’ 😎

Even with the standard smaller rotors, the right angle valves make airing the tire so much easier. They should be standard equipment. They were the very first thing I bought for my bike, even before I bought my bike. When they did the uncrating and assembly I had them install the valves.

@captfire22 looks good, very nice job on the fabrication.

Having the preload ring on top of the shock is a poor design, extremely inconvenient. It seems that you may need to take measurements, remove the shock, make adjustments and then reinstall. Hopefully it doesn’t take too many tries to get the setting correct.

Same experience here, I thought the factory bars on the FJ were ridiculously wide, I bought narrower bars and then still cut a little more off each side. Much more comfortable now.

Very nice bike indeed. Do some research on bike vibration with that model, I'm not sure if it is only specific years but there were lots of reports of handlebar vibrations.

I have found it much easier (with much more access) by removing the swingarm when removing/replacing the shock. Once the wheel is removed and the linkage is disconnected, the swingarm comes off in minutes leaving the whole back half of the bike exposed for perfect access to the shock. And most importantly, while you have it apart, grease the linkage and swingarm bearings!!! They are in such a concealed location that they rarely get any attention.

I run mine with the baffle in and it is a nice deeper tone. I don’t notice it on longer rides, if I am over 50 mph I can’t hear the engine or exhaust anymore, just the whoosh of the air.

You can also put the bike on the side stand and remove the exhaust by moving the center stand up and down a little as you maneuver the exhaust out, no need to remove the end cap.

I forgot about that little block, I threw mine away almost 2 years ago.

Between Memorial day and just after Labor day I have almost 12,000 miles of road trips planned, add in leisure weekend riding and I will easily add another 15,000 miles to the odometer. I average 3 sets of tires and 4-5 oil changes a year.

Winter is the worst time for me, if the bike is sitting idle too long then I'm looking for stuff to buy for it. At least I bought some "practical" items recently, a case of oil and a few sets of tires - should get me to October.

I wish they used a different font that didn’t look like goo. Maybe a graphics shop could make a decal and sell thousands of them. @Cruizin who is the graphics artist that made the forum website logo?

Where is the misinformation coming from that the Niken was directed to someone who isn't able bodied or able to handle a 2 wheeler? Its heavier than a 2 wheeler and does not stand up on its own, it still needs a kickstand. Its merely something different.

Gen I - VMax, such classic lines on that bike, IMO they ruined the looks with the Gen II, however, that motor... 😈

Maybe the photo is misleading but from what I can see it looks like there is still plenty of room to move the controls inward. The Renthal bars actually look wider than stock bars. I dont like wide bars and have always cut mine shorter on each end. On my last 2 bikes I have used Rizoma Handlebars which are narrower than stock and I still cut another 1/2" - 3/4" off of each side. In the control area I dont have anything extra mounted to the bars except grip, clutch or brake mount and control/switch pod which measures 9" to the end of the grip on each side. FWIW, I don't use the factory handguards, I'm not sure if those would require you to have a wider control area on each side?

Since you didn't originally say that, I think he thought it was an off the shelf product available to purchase for our bikes. I thought the same thing.