betoney

True, Yamaha already has the R1 for pure sport and the FJR for touring. A do-it-all "hybrid" type bike will always be a compromise for some riders. We are fortunate to have this model that is as versatile and crosses over to both sport and touring as well as it does. You can tear it up in mountain and canyon twisties and then load on the side bags and head out on a week-long road trip with the comfort of heated grips and cruise control (and STILL tear it up in mountain and canyon twisties). 😎

Don’t age yourself so prematurely, there’s nothing to say that those of us in our 50’s need to slow down, especially on the Tracer. The bike definitely leans more to the SPORT side of sport touring and many of us on this forum ride her accordingly. 😎

Besides spring preload for setting rider sag, the only setting you can change is rebound damping. There is no compression adjustability on the rear shock.

@2linby - My buddy lives in Bend, Or and has a Mr. Eds custom seat just like pictured above. We just got back from a 4,100 mile road trip, most days averaged 450 miles with a few being slightly over 500 miles. We were on the road each morning around 7:30 and rode until dinnertime, for 10 days straight. I have a custom seat from a different shop and neither of us had to take excessive breaks during the day, infact after 10 days in the saddle, my butt was the one thing that didn't ache, unlike my back, shoulders and knees. IMHO, a custom seat is some of the best money I have spent on my bike, second only to custom suspension. I would much rather spend the money for a custom seat, measured, shaped and built specifically for me than a generic off the shelf Sargent or Corbin seat.

Plumas NF... fresh pavement... must investigate! 😎

Congrats on the new bike, I was just riding in Utah/Colorado a few days ago, lots of awesome options for a "long way home" ride! Have fun.

@open1mind - Rizoma products are expensive for sure but there is no denying their quality. My brother has used those same mirrors on his bike for many years without issue, very high quality.

Not to derail this thread but my local tuner, 2WDW, told me the same thing. 2 bikes with the same fuel map can behave quite differently.

If I am in stop-and-go traffic I will switch to B mode on occasion, other than that I use A mode exclusively. The ECU flash really smoothed out A mode and I had it set to default. For hooligan riding, the quick-turn A mode is the only way to ride for me.

Its more than likely only for the GT with the TFT screen.

It should never get stuck. If you are riding and pull in the clutch and the revs stay high rpm then something is dangerously wrong. Personally, I wouldn't ride it until I got that fixed. If you put your bike up on a stand and freely turn the wheel side to side, your idle shouldn't change at all and when you open and close the throttle the rpms should smoothly rise and smoothly drop to idle again, no hesitation, no hanging at high idle.

It is amazing what a difference it makes just swapping tires.

In preparation for an upcoming road trip to Utah and Colorado, I got some Bridgestone T31's mounted this morning.

I use Ram mount holders on street and dirt bike as well as in work vehicle. No issues at all.

Next time Next time I'm in NorCal I'll have to check out Hopland Grade. I was right near there in May, I came around Lake Berryessa into Calistoga and up to Clear Lake.

I absolutely agree, I have bad knees and being able to move my legs to different positions is priceless. I use my frame sliders to rest my feet or the back of my ankles on.

I like what you did with the GPS, I have been playing around with different mount brackets to try and mount mine like that but the RAM arm mount bracket is too long and I cant get it close to the windscreen like yours. When it sticks out further it shakes pretty bad, so I leave mine mounted on the handlebar. After seeing yours I might revisit my bracket idea.

Looks good. Make sure to get the correct fuel map in your ECU flash, it makes a noticeable difference in how the bike runs.

When I say it could be bike set-up I mean anything that differentiates your bike from one that has never had the wobble. Windscreen, stock or aftermarket? short, tall or none? tall torso with short screen? (less aerodynamic) Handguards or none? suspension, stock or not? sag set for your weight? forks raised in the clamps? ride height adjusted on aftermarket shock? lowering links? ECU flashed with less engine braking or stock? low gear or high gear when decelerating? (affecting front end dive) Stock or aftermarket tires? new or unevenly worn? what psi? Side cases? top box? both? none? Any combination of any of these factors could create a bike that handles differently or reacts aerodynamically differently than someone else's bike.

The FJ09. The Tracer GT should be even more stable since it has a longer wheelbase.

This obviously affects different bike set-ups differently. As I posted previously after reading about this being an issue I went out riding actively trying to get it to happen and just couldn’t get the bike to shake at any speed.

I believe that is the Brandon Distributing CC. If I remember correctly they went out of business leaving MCCruise the only one left making a CC for the FJ/Tracer.

MCCruise is probably the only option available, and yes, it is absolutely worth the effort.

I am 6’-1” and look over the screen as well. For the few days that I had the oem screen on my FJ, it had a definite flutter at highway speeds.

I do the same thing, I have never used a torque wrench on an axle nut, never had a wheel fall off or even loosen up. On the few occasions where I use a torque wrench, I usually set it a few pounds less than recommended as some of the manuals recommendations seem very excessive.