wordsmith

Having read these warnings I thought I'd better check mine - don't want to have my freshly-painted panniers scattered across the road! Luckily I have plenty of Torx tools, as they are extensively used in all sizes universally on BMWs. But - in the centre of each Torx screw-head in the lock there appears to be a tiny atom-sized protrusion which prevents the tool-head from getting into it. What am I missing? Luckily, mine seem very secure, but I'd prefer to Loctite them in, just in case. Such tiny screws, such an important job!

Wrong item sent. To be replaced. At least I shifted the mirrors, and from a close squizz there doesn't seem to be any Loctite or such stuff on the threads.

i enjoy finding solutions to problems that don't exist - this is a case in point! There is a steel (I assume) rod that passes horizontally though the front of the screen-raising lock-lever (as the Manual calls it), secured at each end by a circlip. I don't imagine it's secured in any way inside the lock-lever, acting purely as a spindle or axle (again I assume). I wonder if this could be replaced by a rod threaded at each end, protruding a little from the body of the lock-lever, to which might be bolted a vertical bracket of some sort to form the basis of a mount for a GPS?

I understand all of the above, thanks Stealth! The reason for using the adj spanner is simply that the thickness of the jaws - thicker than with the fixed spanner - is such that there's less likelihood of damaging the soft-as-cheese nut. Anyway, after chafing over this for too long I had another go and lo! - the rhs nut shifted. Must have been the three (3) Weetbix I had for breakfast! Now I've had to tighten it up again as I want to get out on the road on this promised 25deg C day (77deg F), and I'll complete the task later today. They do say that patience is a virtue...

I stick to my guns! 12" drop-forged spanner with decent width jaws so as to minimise damage to the nut. Nothing! I realise that the tool itself is only half the solution, the other is the user, and I'd be the first to claim that a new-born babe has greater arm-strength than anorexic me, but even so... I'm leaving well alone now! At least the mirrors shouldn't fold on me!

I too had no trouble with earlier Gen1 mirrors, but I'm of the view that the GT ones are Loctited-in with a dose of double-distilled triple-filtered industrial-grade military-spec Kryptonium - maybe as a response to reports of them shifting while on the road. I'm not game to try any more, so that's $13 or so wasted. Fortunately the GT mirrors are on longer OE stems so are not quite as poor as earlier ones, plus the 2" blind-spot aux mirrors help..

Righty tighty it certainly is! By a happy (or so I wrongly thought) coincidence my mirror extenders arrived today, and I set to to fit them. But the biggest wrench with decent width jaws simply won't shift the rhs (throttle) side nut - I left the other - and as we all know these nuts are made of soft cheese and are too easily rounded-out! Are they Locktited in at the factory? And is it definite that the rhs nut is turned counter-clockwise to loosen - I nearly wrenched the 'bars off trying to get some - any - movement of the nut! Aaarrrggghhhhh!

More than once I've had a mirror fold back on me at (modest and entirely legal) speed - what an annoying and potentially dangerous thing it is! Thanks...

Is this why there's reverse thread on the rhs? I've often wondered at the reasoning - makes lot of sense!

Thank you! An easy mnemonic - R(ight) = R(everse)... Much obliged - will save much swearing!

A cut-to-size length of thin aluminium tube would suffice.

Unless things have changed with the GT mirrors as opposed to the Gen1 Tracer mirrors - which seems highly unlikely - you leave the inset nut alone, and unscrew the stems from the black nut below, as highlighted in the first pic below. That's what I'll be doing (based on identical previous installs) when my own mirror risers/ extenders arrive. Loosen that nut and un-thread the stem vertically. But be careful - one side mirror stem has reverse thread, but I cannot recall which one it is! When you suss that out yourself, please post here... LATER EDIT - many here including myself have also added small 2" diameter 'blind-spot' mirrors to further enhance rear visibility... second pic below.

Join the club!!!

^^ at least...

I used those same holes to mount the cross-bar that carries the DRLs, and can echo the need for a large washer inside the fairing, as the 'hole' is pretty large, irregular in shape, and the plastic there seems a bit flimsy. I actually used a leftover length of perforated steel strip to spread to load inside. First pic below shows the holes from underneath highlighted with yellow arrows. I'll check frequently that all is well down there, and that no cracking appears.

Don't want to start a 'mine is better than yours', but I like the fact that the ones I have on order, and have used several times in the past, move the OE mirror stems outboard a little as well as raising the stems. Anyone here younger than about 50 won't recall the Berlei bra ads of the past (or, indeed, what a 'bra' is), but these items 'lift and separate' as the ad said, giving, IMHO, the best of both worlds. Cheap, too, at only AUD$19.88, and from past experience beautifully made and powder-coated.

BMW gloves are top-class, and unlike with Held (though no doubt fine products) you don't have to sell your first-born to be able to afford a pair.

No matter how light the bike, it's surely gotta upset the handing. I doubt it would be legal here...

2and3 = 5... my shorthand - or laziness.

Also a good reason why many add some front DRLs/ LEDs, to be seen...

Great lookin' bike and set-up, five.

Thanks, guys. I have ordered what I believe to be the right ones. The mirror-stems on the GT are rather longer than on the Gen1 Tracers, and certainly have improved rearward vision somewhat, but having had these risers/ extenders on other bikes I very much like the even greater/ wider spread of vision that they give. Will post comments/ pix in due course.

Where is that cafe, John - I must get out there soon? Looks like towards Kingaroy or thereabouts...

Precisely - but some of the earlier posts on this refer to the FJR, and I had - wrongly - assumed that this was being carried through in later posts, with the 'FJ' being shorthand for the 'FJR'. All Yamaha's fault for being so lazy with its model names and designations - too many FJs!! Thanks...

I find it hard to accept this other than in the broadest sense. I'd personally be wary of instigating 'fixes' for my GT based on FJR experiences, and vv. The nearest point of similarity I can find is that both are made by Yamaha.