AndyW

Surely the throw of the actuator arm has to be a set measurement (within a range) to guarantee clutch disengagement? The bar lever may move a different distance but the 'gearing' of the lever mech should ensure the required throw? Ordinarily I'd go for decent levers but I'm not wanting to put more money into this bike right now unless I absolutely have to. Thanks 👍

Arrow (on case) and 'punch mark' aligned 👍 @2and3cylinders ....when (if) you get a chance could you measure the travel of the clutch arm... see pic (distance travelled when clutch lever pulled right in). Cheers

Bike is new to me and the parts fitted by a previous owner. I'll have a look for those alignment marks.... thanks.

The clutch switch post bodge...

Noticed that the clutch lever (aftermarket) does not 'close' fully when released. Adjusted the cable so there's a couple of mm slack but made no difference... found that it can't be pushed to close the gap (see photo). Looks like a bodge install on closed inspection.... found a piece of rubber tube cable tied to the post that operates the switch i.e. to fully depress the switch button! Pulling the clutch lever in... either the lever pulls right to the bars or on adjuster setting to upwards of 3 the adjuster cam hits the back of the handlebar switches! Obviously needs to be binned and replaced but meantime concerned that pulling the lever is not giving max operation of the arm on the crankcase i.e. not disengaging clutch to the max. Is there a measurement for the correct operation of the lever on the crankcase? (sorry for the long winded explanation... hope it makes sense!)

I will indeed use some threadloc👍 ...doubles as anti-seize and stops bimetallic reactions. The nuts I've bought have been tested at 60Nm. I'm going to go for 50Nm and check them regularly for a while to see that the nyloc/threadloc is doing its job. I can't fathom any any reason why the sprocket / sprocket carrier interface lower torquing would be detrimental.... I'm assuming Yamaha's figure is purely set (as a belt and braces figure) to ensure the nuts don't loosen.

Thanks, there is a UK importer for Galfer kits. I have a 2018 GT and the lines you linked to are not compatible. I'll fire a message at Galfer.eu Cheers

Thanks.... but no UK importer that I see 😒

Thanks for the input Skipper, great post, appreciated 👍 All sounds authoritative... can I ask about your qualification/experience/sources? My 'good authority's is in the nuts and bolts industry..... and he happens to own an MT09. I should have also said, that unable to source OEM sprocket nuts, I've gone for Ti nyloc nuts.

That's a really good point re wear that had not occurred to me, thanks 👍 And as all the bolts I've been working with on the Tracer so far are dry i.e. no locktite or grease lubricating the thread on install (and preventing corrosion and/or galling) that will be more relevant. Re the sprocket nuts I have it on good authority that the recommended setting of 80Nm (59lb ft) is way too high (as others have said here on the forum). I was advised 40 to 50Nm MAX which sits right with the generic/typical figures for M8 bolts found on the net... (source: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/)

Having found the old discussions regarding sprocket retaining studs stripping and what the correct chain tension should be and the related comments re incorrect info in the workshop manual I wondered what other tech date and instructions have been found to be wrong?? Would be good to collect such details in one place

Looking for kit recommendations and advice on fitting please. @chitown ...you said in a now archived (closed) discussion: Would you still have the kit code and a link to the install instructions? Can't find anything on their EU or USA websites 😞

Thought I'd just add the warning re the use of this kit....

WR18 HKN ....if you owned this bike from some time after 12/07/2022 until 28/05/2023 I'd love to have a chat 😉 Thnx

It'll take a bit more adapting to against riding it's stable mate, a 2020 Superduke 1290R!. But I like it.... I get why so many owners enthuse about the Tracer 900. Fun 😁👍 Surprised at how light and nimble it feels (not exactly a light bike).... really keen to turn into corners (all the more surprising as my new to me bike has an end of life badly squared off rear tyre! [Road 6 GT's.... GT's for touring I suppose - less than 1mm to wear bars mid tyre] ) Good fun to ride.... better still when I can stop changing up too soon 😆 (a KTM vs mMT09 revs thing;-) Why haven't Yamaha done a 1200 version?! 😲 When riding at pace on curvy roads I like to ride with the front of the balls of my feet on the pegs... I haven't got super large feet and don't wear chunky motocross boots but my heels were fouling the pillion peg brackets. Something I'll have to get used to I guess. I found the gear change a bit agricultural at times... quite often a bit of a 'snick' into gear and occasionally more of a 'clunk'. And I missed a couple 🫢 ## Gear linkage adjustment? ## Clutch cable adjustment? (not had a bike that didn't have an hydraulic clutch for about 20 years!) At low speeds I was hearing a transmission whining type of sound. Not ridden another Tracer/MT09 so nothing to compare against. Normal? Chain adjusted to 45mm slack 😉 Fcuking wind noise!!!! ....with an MRA Vario screen. Adjusting the aerofoil made little difference (right down best). I have a Shoei Neotec III, one of the quietest lids around AND wear custom ear plugs... and even at 30 to 40 mph the wind noise was intrusive. Any faster and it was uncomfortably LOUD! But no buffeting. I have a tiny little fly screen on my 1290 and can cruise at 70+ speeds in perfect comfort. 🏍️🏍️🏍️🏍️🏍️🏍️