squarewheel

The new ones have more differences than I realized. Thx for the pics.

I can’t buy lunch for that price.

Thx, will check it out

When you talk about "light front end" ... can you describe more about this? I'm interested in learning about the issue you want to address, how it shows up, what situations, etc. I'm on a 2024 GT+, weigh about 150lb, haven't done any mods on the suspension.

I have 2300 miles on my 2024 GT+. The screen is a bigger upgrade than one might think. Very pleased with it, performs well in all conditions (yes, they f'ing solved it, apparently). Adaptive Cruise Control is a joy to use on the "highly variable" interstate highways here in the North East U.S. Haven't had a reason to test the Unified Braking System, and hope I won't, but glad to be riding with it. Quickshifter has the expanded functionality, and it cooperates with the cruise control. That said, QS is still quite clunky on the way down (up is quite slick). I conquered the integration of Garmin Motorize (postings on this site) and find it fairly low friction now. I read that the switchgear is vastly improved with the joystick introduction, but never used prior incantations. I find them easy to use. The included cases are easy-on, easy-off and serve well with a matched key to ignition. Dragging my feet on adding the top-box, but the current bags don't hold more than an overnight's worth of stuff. Wouldn't mind a bit more wind reduction at "decent" highway speeds, but have not yet read a truly compelling solution online. Here in the U.S., you can have any color you like, as long as it's black and gray with gold accents.

I'm wrestling with GMC on a friggin' replacement transmission warranty, and it's all about friggin' documentation. With this GT+, to me, it's got a lot of "novel electronics" - meaning this stuff is new. My concern is that with everything from this great new LED readout to the unified braking, to the sorta-dynamic suspension, to the friggin' bat radar... I took the extended warranty (which I never do) just because there's so much new kit in this build. To me, that means that the bike is going to need good service dox. I want the dealer's fingerprint on the first record. Down the road, yeah, I can do oil/filters and cable tensions. But I'll pay the dealer for some service visits to keep him on my side of any potential "biggies."

long term update. been a while now. First off, I now consider this robust and dependable, minimal issues. Using it frequently. About 30 seconds after turning the ignition to ON, the Bluetooth connection between the bike and my iPhone autoconnects, no effort on my part - good. While I'm looking at the phone, I switch my phone's Wifi from the house service to the bike's hotspot. It works fine. (Here's a minor distraction - the phone often claims a "password error" for the bike's hotspot. I ignore that false message without issue). Then, on the phone, I fire up the MyRide App, without paying it much attention, and start the Garmin Motorize App. Finally, a long push on the 'home' button on the bike, accept the disclaimer, and good to go. The Motorize App is actually quite good. I save destinations in the app when I'm sitting around the house. It knows where gas stations are located. The "go home" feature is most useful for my habit of intentionally getting lost. It understands intersections. Maps are onboard, no continuous download required. No touchscreen required, all controlled easily with joystick and button. Only thing I really miss from Waze is the British woman saying, "Police reported ahead."

Hmm. That’s a drag. I’m on iOS, so don’t really know. However, I’ll tell you quirky things I do see. First off, I’ve noticed quite frequently. The app recognizes the Bluetooth connection more than one time in the available connections list. It seems to connect OK to whatever it wants and I usually don’t have to intervene with Bluetooth. Where I do see a similar problem is on the Wi-Fi side. Quite frequently, maybe one in five or six tries, I will get an error message complaining that I have the wrong Wi-Fi password. However, I usually ignore the message and continue on, and the connection somehow straightens itself out automatically. The error itself has not been a stopper, but it took me a while till I learned to ignore it.

The screen performs very well; even "acceptable +" in direct sunlight. To me, that's a win over my iPhone for that and a few other factors (not touch screen, no reach required, no janky mount). The Garmin Motorize app runs on the phone and delivers the screen to the bike using "wifi hotspot" emulation built into the bike, as I expect that Bluetooth can't provide the bandwidth for this screen mirroring. Then, the handlebar left hand joystick/home button provides, basically, a mouse to control the Motorize app. It does consume phone battery, but if I need to charge up, I just plug the phone to the bike's USB port. While off the bike, I can use the fully functional app on the iPhone to search for and to save my destinations. I could certainly do this roadside, on the bike, but not while in motion. While riding, it's quite straightforward and easy to either select a saved destination (it will automatically route it) or just select the "Home" button and get an autoroute there. If I choose a side-road on any route, the app automatically reroutes in a logical way to the intended destination. It's certainly not the most elegant application I've ever seen, but it's stable and the maps are on-board (not constantly refreshing from cloud)). In use, it performs as expected every time and it's intuitive to use - I'm not asking for a manual (yet).

OK, a few weeks down the road and I wanted to post a follow-up note. #1 Most important thing - once I got this set up properly, it's been low/no maintenance whatsoever. The "struggles" were really about the initialization and set-up. #2 It was worth the effort for me because I prefer not to mount anything 'extra' to the cockpit. I don't want my phone floating out there (and the display is smaller) and I don't want to buy a stand-alone GPS unit. #3 I'm a "go get lost" pleasure rider. I certainly don't need a GPS for the first half of the mission. But this implementation is really useful for a) ok, gotta head back; b) damn, where am I going to find a gas station; c) does that next turn go somewhere or dead-end in a half-mile. Most of the time the Garmin app is running in my pocket, and it's a real benefit to hold down a button to see it all on the built-in, sunshine readable, bigger and augmented screen. My user experience now is... go to garage, turn on bike & wait 20 seconds for BT icon to light-up, ensure phone's Bluetooth auto-connects (always does now), start MyRide app, set my phone WiFi to the bike's hotspot, start Garmin Motorize. Then put phone in pocket and go get lost again.

OK, updates for the spectators and future help seekers... significant mission progress. Learnings: First and foremost, one must complete a successful "initial install." I did this by following the steps in the Yamaha Owner's Manual (Tracer 9 GT+) exactly as written. It's somewhat challenging, because halfway through the process, you have to go back on the internet to load map and voice files to your phone, and they are a very large payload (N.America >5GB). But, it works. Second, and what I was originally seeking in this thread, is the procedure to use post-install, when you just want to get on, load the nav app, and get rolling. Here's what worked today after more R&D. Most valuable information came from Reddit (link from @betoney, above) and the Garmin FAQ link embedded in that Reddit thread. Note that in the steps below, "CCU" refers to the bike's communication unit, accessed through the APP menu. I use an iPhone, so this is in that context. This platform uses two apps on the phone. MyRide - Link is a communication bridge app between the bike and the phone and leverages both Bluetooth (BT) and Wifi Hotspot technology provided by the bike's own electronics. BT is for standard low bandwidth stuff like sound and headset stuff. Wifi is needed, likely because the screen painting needs much more bandwidth (speculating)). AND BEFORE SOME OF YOU START WITH THE GROUCHY OLD MAN CRAP... <grin>... It ain't that hard, but I'm outlining carefully for people that are struggling with getting their heads around it for the first time. TL;DR... connect bike to phone with BT connect MyRide app to bike with BT connection connect bike to phone with WiFi hotspot open up Navigation app on bike across the Wifi connection (total time about 90 seconds, then go ride) ------------- Step by Step: The real first step is to make sure that your CCU is connected via Bluetooth to your smartphone and through the Yamaha MyRide App. to pair your CCU to your smartphone 1. on the ccu, SELECT SETTINGS 2. SELECT CONNECTIONS 3. SELECT BLUETOOTH 4. SELECT MAKE SYSTEM DISCOVERABLE 5. USE PHONE BT-SETTINGS PAGE TO PAIR PHONE WITH BIKE 6. CHECK THE PAIRING STATUS ON BIKE - under SMARTPHONE you should see music & phn both checked to pair the MyRide App to your smartphone 1. on the CCU, still under SETTINGS 2. still under CONNECTIONS 3. SELECT PAIRING WITH THE MYRIDE LINK 4. GOTO MYRIDE LINK APP 5. SELECT MYRIDE LINK APP SETTINGS 6. on the ccu, SELECT "PAIRING WITH THE MYRIDE LINK" 1. should see "check the app for instrux" on ccu 2. check for "Connected" status showing on myride link app 3. garmin faq page shows a (Vehicles > "+" > LBxxxxx) on the app the next step is to ensure smartphone is connected to CCU WiFi hotspot 1. on CCU, still under SETTINGS 2. still under CONNECTIONS 3. select WIFI HOTSPOT 4. ensure WIFI HOTSPOT IS CHECKED 5. CONNECT SMARTPHONE TO WIFI HOTSPOT you should now be able to project Motorize wirelessly to CCU display 1. make sure bluetooth and wifi connections are enabled per above 2. open Motorize app on smartphone 3. longpress the home button on the bike to wake Nav screen on bike. 4. you should be ready to ride. Note you can "curate" the Garmin Motorize app in your spare time off-bike. Set your "home" location and save various destinations. While I'm a big Waze user in the car, I can't imagine trying to use a touch-screen on the bike. I certainly don't need nav tools for most of my riding, but when I'm trying to find new backroad twisties to tiny towns a hundred miles away, this has a lot of value. There's a troubleshooting section in MyRide app, but I never got through that. The steps above worked for me. I'm sure after about five times, I probably won't think about it much at all. good luck. --wheel^2

I imagine the labling of three scenarios is a result of getting the same damn questions 10,000 times. "Well, what about when I have a passenger, 32 lbs of luggate, a radar dish and two cats?" "36/42, Sir."

Stay tuned. On a mission.

good looking.

Agreed on all your points. My good news is.. I had it working on Sunday. That was my second attempt, and I basically "deleted everything and started over." It was working with a live map on the screen and joystick control and all. But it was raining and so I just stayed in the garage, messed around with it for a while and that was it. Bad news is, I go to road test it after work yesterday and it's snafu'd. Seeing multiple Bluetooth connections on my phone for same "device", wifi won't connect, yada yada. I didn't really have time to start the whole install over again. So I'm trying to get the procedure established where I just walk up, turn the system on, open the apps, see the map and roll. There's got to be a right way/wrong way path here, just gotta find it. And it appears that plenty of people need it, too. Stay tuned.