Buggy Nate

The foot pedal assembly is long gone I am afraid. The motor looks period though. It is a little bit gutless though.

It was a old foot powered lathe that the previous owner had adapted a electric motor to. I found the name before but can’t remember now. Very basic but it is true so it works well. Does need a better motor though.

Yamaha doesn’t have this feature as far as I am aware. But you can still achieve what you want by extending the balance ports with some vacuum hose and some bungs to a point that’s accessible. You can then check it anytime but you’ll need to strip it down to adjust. It’s really not that big a deal though. Half an hour job at most to pull the fairings and tank.

Fit up some big metal gear discs with some spacers I made up on my 100 year old lathe. Still goes alright! Waiting on pads and bolts now.

I glued the lot. Hasn’t moved in two years.

Yeah mine was doing the same. Bugged the absolute shit out of me! I used contact adhesive to glue it in place. It won’t harden the rubber like super glue can.

I love this! Looks awesome! May need to give myself another project!

Yeah I asked nitron for some information on that. Even told them I was a mechanic with all the tools and they kept their secrets. Wouldn’t divulge any information. Wished I’d had of gone with the more conventional remote reservoir. I found a video online showing a nitron being assembled. Seems to be a de carbon piston style with the chamber pressurised to around 250-300psi. So care should be taken!

I found a similar thing on my Nitron shock. I had it out for a service and was unable to loosen the seal head cap due to some muppet over tightening the crap out of the cap. Distorted the cap so I’ll need to make a proper 8 pin tool to remove it, rather than the usual two pin style.

I would like to know how he knows the last mechanic set the clearance to intake spec, especially if the valve was tight enough to burn?

Replace the tyre too. It will have been damaged from the hit. You can get rims repaired too by the way. Special machine to re roll them.

Just a FYI after you repair the stripped thread, the caliper can stay on the bracket for rear wheel removal. Save yourself some time and grief!

Intake pressure sensor 1 is the sensor that measures manifold pressure and is connected to the three vacuum hoses by tee pieces. It should be connected to a plug with the Blue, Pink, and Black/Blue wires. The only difference being the pink which is pink/white on the atmospheric pressure sensor. Easy mistake to make. I always mark them though. Easy check too, tank and air box off. You do not need to take throttle bodies off to do the valves but I would check them out for cleanliness and tight clamps etc.

This sounds very similar to a R1 I had to diagnose and it turned out someone had mixed up the plugs on the map sensor and the atmospheric pressure sensor. Might well be the same issue, all happened when a previous shop had done the valves as well. I’d get the fuel pressure tested too, as well as checking for water in the fuel.

I’ve got the titanium Akra system on mine. I modified the baffle for slightly more sound with three ten millimetre holes in the side of the tubes. Nice and throaty with out being obnoxious. Dyno‘d at old work at 122hp. Happy days and enough to keep my out of trouble and get me in some!

100% that is rust. The inside shell of the dust seal has corroded and rusted out to split the rubber. Seen it plenty of times. Sometimes it stems from the fork seal retaining clip and the corrosion spreads to the uncovered parts of the dust seal. I always give them a liberal coat of light weight fork seal grease to prevent stiction and corrosion.

The bike itself looks tough as, those bags look absolutely horrendous though.

Mines the same, next to impossible to see anything in focus in the right mirror at speed.

I’ll buck the trend and always drill for locator pins. I absolutely detest the rotating switch block/sticky electrical tape dodgyness! Sorry not sorry! Takes a few more minutes to correctly line up the switch blocks where you want them and they’ll not move from where you set them.

Yes fuel tank is metal but it has big plastic covers over a lot of it. Will probably need an alternate mounting.

I just did this to mine a month ago as well, I was going to service the Nitron shock as well but they have done the seal head up to 600ft/pds like a bunch of muppets. 🤬 I added a extra bearing to the brake side as Yamaha only installed one when there is enough room for two like on the drive side. Had one lying around from a spare linkage bearing kit.

I’d love a 850 Africa Twin, the big one is comfy as to ride but too expensive to insure after 1000cc here in Oz. I am still very tempted by a Tenere 700.

As above, best way to remember it is they are designed so when they get hit from the front they loosen rather than snap off.

Eh, not that dark matey! They are a cracking bike. If they didn’t have a thimble for a fuel tank I’d be on one too. I find the Mt-09 seat a lot more comfortable than the tracer. Glad to have you back matey!!

I would literally split the crankcase for a shorter first gear for lane splitting. The rest of the gears could be a tad taller. When your motor is tuned properly you can use the full rev range without snatchiness.